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| Blitzen Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing Season: Summer Time Required: A long day Rock Difficulty: 5.4 (YDS) Grade: III
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| Page By: Dan Leonhard Created/Edited: May 27, 2006 / Nov 16, 2007 Object ID: 196380 Hits: 1541 Loading... Page Score: 82.72% - 6 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewBlitzen Ridge is one of the finest ridges that can be climbed in Rocky Mountain National Park. In its alpine setting, this route challenges the soloist to make a fast ascent to the summit, or a roped party to move quickly and efficently to avoid the summer storms. With Donner on the left, the Y couloir in the middle, and Blitzen on the right, Ypsilon Mountain is indeed impressive. When first entering the park, Blitzen looks blunt and rounded. However, a trip up Trail Ridge Road will reveal the true definition of this beauty. Metamorphic granite created marbled layers of white and gray rock to give this route an unbelievable solid structure and unprecedented artistry. The exposed ridge, knife-like and jagged, forces the climber to make a fast ascent. There is little escape off this route and weather, especially lightning, is a continuos factor. Be aware that this ridge is committing and rather long. Also, keep in mind this route holds some of the finest views, best rock, and an inspiring summit.
Getting ThereStart this adventure at Lawn Lake Trailhead. You will be taking this trail toward Ypsilon Lake via merging onto Ypsilon Lake Trail. When arriving at Ypsilon Lake, there is a faint trail that leads North West to Spectacle Lakes. After following this trail you arrive in the cirque. Avoid the lakes by heading right, up a talus hill for a few hundred feet. (Heading up the grassy gully behind Ypsilon Lake is more direct). In all, the approach is about six miles. The hill will eventually round off, becoming rocky, and the route will be directly in front of you. Route DescriptionAt this point you will be able to see the Four Aces- prominent figures that spike up nearly a hundred feet. You do not need to climb all four of them. The first two Aces can easily be passed by going around the left side of them. Note that there are scary ledges of grass (class 4) that remind you how high up you really are. The third ace should be climbed directly (5.4). It is intense and exposed. A rappel down to the bottom of the fourth Ace may be necessary because down-climbing any of these Aces is very sketch. Twin ropes will allow one rappel.(Note there were fixed anchors but they looked old and new webbing seemed needed) The knife-like saddle at the bottom is about as exposed as you will get on this climb, though the ridge past the forth Ace does let down much. The last Ace can be passed by going up and right which leads to much talus (staying on the ridge is exposed as noted above).
Thank you Andy for your contribution!
The rest of the ridge from here is forth class climbing unless you attempt the head wall (which I hear is 5.4). All of these Aces require route finding. 5.4 is the standard rating for the route but you may find some harder moves. Also, the route can be as direct as you want it. All of the Aces can be climbed directly if time and endurence and fear permit.
Thank you Joe for your contribution!
DescentAfter you soak up the views from the summit, a down-climb on Donner Ridge is an option. However, I strongly recommend a glissade down the gullys between Yplison and Chiquita mountains. During late summer the snow is soft. Look for the gentle slopes, some are definitely steep and scary. There are also rock taluses that can be used though the rocks are loose. The base is spectacular. From here, enjoy the walk back down to Ypsilon Lake. This land is prestige and full of life. In fact, I saw a mountain lion cub during this ascent. The hike back is longer than the approach. Keep this in mind when venturing out on this journey.
Essential GearBring a lite rack. There is an abundance of placements as well as an abundance of hiking- don't weigh yourself down. I brought a set of stoppers and some smaller cams, none over a 2.5. Twin ropes would be helpful in rappeling the third Ace. Also bring extra slings and carabiners-they could come in useful if the rappel anchors look bad or are nonexistant.
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Rocky Mountain National Park
