The full ridge of Besiberris is realized from the summit of Besiberri Nord, see this route to approach to this point. The inverse itinerary it's very very hard because the step-crossing of Bretxa Sallés (in descent you can make 2 rappels, but the ascent is very complicated) and is better the easy descent to Pas de Trescazes after Besiberri del Mig (and not the chimneys of II of Besiberri Nord)

The itinerary is very long for one day, 12 or 13hours (4h to Besiberri Nord, 5h or 6h the ridge, and 3h to the descent). It's possible the camp for the night but it's difficult to find a good place to the tent. Actually the old Hut of Bretxa Peyta don't exist.

For this reasons generally this route is realized actually in 1 day and it's only for good traineds mountaineers with some of experience in rock-climb of grade III and the rappels.

The most classical route is the ridge between Besiberri Nord to Besiberri del Mig (the part most spectacullar) but generally the Besiberri Sud is climbed as well.
A final climb to Comaloforno and Passet is possible but then the route go to 15hours...I write a little about this climb if you want make this.

Getting There

See the main page to approach to Estany de cavallers and Besiberri Nord

Route Description: Beggining in Besiberri Nord (PD)

Sketch Ridge Nord-Mig

Descent (I)

The route begin in the summit of Besiberri Nord (3015m, see the link to the normal route, PD)

We descent across the south ridge bordering the great blocks of stone, it's an easy itinerary but exposed, with the use of the hands in some points (grade F), to reach the Brecha Oliveras (2935m).

Brecha Oliveras-Brecha Sallés (PD+)

Wall (II)

Wall (III)

In the exit of the gap we find the first obstacle, it's a short chimney vertical of II to reach a short wall of 4 meters of III (It's a good place to use the rope for the people with less experience). After the wall we get the channel of left side to reach the edge of the ridge.

Under some aiguilles we leave the ridge and following a narrow path we descent for the west flank of the ridge. After a shorth walk we ascent now to reach a little rocky terrace over the Bretxa Sallés (attention to the cairns) where you'll find some places to tie the rope for the rappel.

Brecha Sallés-Besiberri del Mig (PD+)

First rappel: 20 meters, good wall vertical. After a short walk-up of 20 meters we find the second place to tie the rope in the second rappel, 10 meters over a cracked chimney with difficult places to put the foots.
In the Brexta Sallés (2925m) we go across the exit of a little wall of II+ to reach a confuse itinerary of chimneys, walks across narrow paths, channels of stones... ever in west face with a maximum of I+, with some exposed places (great fall). Finally we reach a wide channel of free stones (be carefull with the people and stones) to arrive, across a zig-zag between the rocks, to the summit of Pic Simó (3002m). In this point the complications are over. A short walk up to Pic Jolis (3003m) and an easy descent (I+) go to the very wide col of Pas de Trescazes (2909m). You can leave the route and descent if you want in this point (It's not possible leave the ridge before of this point)

First Rappel

Full Rappel

Second rappel

Besiberri del Mig-Besiberri Sud (PD-)

We leave the ridge and the two big aiguilles of south and we walk for the path in east side (left) to reach the bottom of the Besiberri Sud (3030m). The chimney of II is the last obstacle to this summit. We descent across the west face in a little path to a little gap in the ridge to Comaloforno. In this point you can to descent as well.

Besiberri Sud-Comaloforno (PD-)-Passet (PD+)

The access it's possible bordering the ridge for both faces. The east face had a channel with hard slope and the west faces some rock-climbs. The last part with the ridge of II is the same to reach the summit of Comaloforno (3033m).

After a descent in a path of west face (right) we reach the Brecha Passet. The access to the big wall (tower) is easiest in right side across some chimneys of II to reach the final ridge and the summit of Punta Passet (3002m). The climb of the wall of the tower is hardest (III).
We return to Comaloforno and the channel of stones of S-SW to descent.

The shortest descent from this point is across the Estany Gelat and Paso del Oso (the next days I'll write this route to climb the Besiberri Sud and I'll write here the link)

Essential Gear

Rope, harness, helmet, some carabiners and some cordinos.

External Links

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Images