North Ridge

Overview

This route is generally used as the start of the Ensakwatch Enchainment. It is basically a scrambling route with a little bit of easy climbing near the top. Climbing is generally done either just left or right of the crest.

Getting There

From the Nesakwatch Creek trailhead, follow the very steep climbers path up the hill for approximately 4 hours to reach the high alpine basin below the west face of the spire. The trail gains over a thousand meters in only 3 kilometers of travel and is relentless.

From the talus field, head east to a series bushes low down on the north ridge to gain the ridgecrest. This is located about 1/10 the way up the ridge.

Route Description

The route climbs loose rock near the crest to about half way up where it improves. The climb breaks off to the right side of the crest here (a good spot to rope up). Climbing meaders up gullies and slabs on either side of the crest to the top. There are several possibilites for making the route harder with some good looking cracks to gain the crest in a few spots.

The final pitch tunnels between 2 blocks to reach the summit area. It took us about 2 hours from camp.

To get down you can either downclimb the north ridge or walk down the south ridge then either rap to the basin or continue up the north ridge on the south spire.

Essential Gear

Rope
Light Rack
Ice Axe and Crampons in early season

External Links

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Images

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