The East Ridge of Cube Point is one of the recommended 5.4 climbs in Leigh Ortenburger's guidebook "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range." It is one of the few shorter routes that he recommends, sticking primarily to the major peaks (Grand, Middle, Owen and Moran) as well as Symmetry Spire, which is a more ambitious undertaking than nearby Cube Point. In fact, of the 5.4 climbs listed in the guide as recommended (see page 31-32), this is the only climb that could be considered a rest day or even possible in a single day for the average individual. All other climbs are either on the Grand Teton (possible in a day, but couldn't be considered restful by any stretch of the imagination), Moran, Owen, and three peaks with long approaches (West Horn, Cleaver Peak and Rolling Thunder).

Thus, your choices for easy rock climbing to a summit of a peak for a rest day are limited. This is a good one.

The ridge is exposed for a 5.4 climb. The climbing is quick, easy, and enjoyable. Most of it is easier than 5.4. The approach is short enough to make this a rest day. You may see guided parties on the route as well. This has become the most popular route on the peak according to the Ortenburger guide.

Getting There

First, take the highway into the park north toward the Jenny Lake Boat Dock (see the main page for information on how to get here if you are not sure). This is a well-signed turnoff and you should be able to follow the tourists and other patrons (many with ropes, headed for Symmetry Spire and Baxter's Pinnacle) to the boat dock. $5 will get you across the lake and $9 will get you a roundtrip ticket ($10 if you purchase the ride back separately--if you are concerned about making it back in time). It is approximately 3 miles around the lake and there is a well-marked trail to follow if you would like to save $5 (or $9) or if you are getting a late start. The first shuttle starts at 6 or 7 am if memory serves me correctly, but I was unable to confirm this online. I believe you recieve a discount if you are on the first shuttle in the morning. The final boat leaves the west side of the lake (near the climbs) at 6 pm, so don't miss it. The trail back around the lake is flat and easy though.

Anyways.....take the Jenny Lake ferry across the lake and head right along the shoreline when you get off the boat. Take the climber's trail into Hanging Canyon after approximately 4 bridge crossings (this number seems to change). The turnoff is on the left obviously, and it is a fairly well-worn trail. It climbs relatively steeply and switchbacks up the hillside. Just below Ribbon Cascade, the falls below Arrowhead Pool (Arrowhead Pool is more obvious from above, but it is in the "hanging" part of the canyon above you at this point) cross the stream. When you enter Hanging Canyon, Cube Point will be immediately to your left and you will most likely need to head dramatically south (left) to get to it. You may lose a bit of elevation here. There are several climber's trails in the area, but the one leads directly toward Cube Point is obvious. It will cross to the east of Arrowhead Pool, which may be quite dry and small in late summer.

Once under Cube Point, the long summit ridge should be visible. The true summit is to climber's right side, but there are several gendarmes that appear just as tall as the summit. Head to the left side (east) of the formation, and climb up a very narrow and somewhat loose couloir. This is the East Couloir. To the right is the start of the East Ridge (not far into the couloir--probably less than 100 feet of scrambling). See the picture attached to this page for a look at the start of the ridge. One advantage to this route is that the standard descent route goes past the start of the route, so you can leave your pack and even your boots here if you like. The route is short and you'll be back at your packs in no time.

Route Description

It should be noted that the Ortenburger guide calls this route 5 pitches, but it can be done in as little as 3. When we did the route, the first pitch was a full 200 feet, the second pitch was 160+ (until rope drag stopped me) and the third pitch was a traverse of the summit ridge itself to the base of the summit block that gained almost no elevation at all. More comfortable parties can scramble across the traverse without a belay, but it is very exposed with a couple of class 4 moves. The mantle onto the summit block is 5.4 as well.

This description is based on our method of climbing the ridge, in 3 pitches.

To see the view from the base of the ridge, please click the photo attached to this section. The first pitch climbs directly up from the couloir, encountering some class 4 terrain and a few (2 or maybe 3) true 5.4 moves. There is at least one fixed piton on this pitch, about 70 feet up. A full 200 feet will reach a sloping, slightly lower angle section on the ridge to belay from a horizontal crack. It is a sit-down stance, although a better stance or seat appears available about 10-15 feet higher up (soloing the first 15 feet of the route and belaying from higher on the first pitch will allow you to make use of this stance, but the one mentioned is also fine).

From this belay, climb straight up the crest of the ridge, overcoming at least 2 large blocks/gendarmes. There is a 5.4 step-across move here and then a boulder that looks significantly more difficult to climb on the ridge crest. Drop to the right here (below the crest) and then climb a low-angle finger crack back to the ridge crest. This portion felt slightly more difficult than 5.4, but may not have been on the proper route. However, it is relatively easy, and has little exposure. It is primarily awkward, since the crack is right against a vertical or slightly overhanging face to your left. Once past the 6-9 foot crack, belay among a series of shattered blocks and horns, in a very secure seat.

From here, the summit block is obscured but close. Continue along the summit ridge heading west, and drop down from the ridge crest for an exposed class 4 traverse that is 10-20 feet in length. From the end of this traverse continue west and the summit cubical block will come into view. It is perhaps 7-8 feet tall. Climb the block on lead and then set a belay below the cube for your partner.

Descent

Retrace your steps back across the exposed 4th class traverse. Just before the belay stance at the top of the 2nd pitch, look right and down. There should be a visible climber's trail that closely follows the ridgeline, heading east. This is the trail that drops into the East Couloir. Join this trail and follow it down, being careful of loose rocks and climber's below. You should find your packs easily.

Essential Gear

A standard light-weight alpine rack and rope. Some water. A 50m rope is fine, but the climb will have to be done in 4 pitches. Time is not usually a concern though, so this shouldn't be a problem. There are no rappels on the route. Remember that it is another $4 or $5 to ride the ferry back across the lake, so make sure to buy a roundtrip ticket for $9 in the first place, or have a spare $5 for the ride back.