The Gletschhorn South Ridge is a classic route in the Urner Alps on solid granite. The summit offers a panoramic view of this part of the Urner and is a satisfying reward. While the guidebook (Schweiz Plaiser Ost)has the route graded around 4c I found it to be quite challenging for the grade! The route sports one or two solid bolts and a number of old pegs but you will mostly be responsible yourself for placing protection.
Furthermore the approach to and descent from the route are quite serious making the route not recommended for beginners in my opinion, even though the technical grade is not that high. Finally, we climbed on our big mountain boots but I would recommend rock shoes for a more rewarding and safer climb. Have fun!

Getting There

The route is best accessed from the Albert - Heim hut which lies about 1 to 1.5 hours walk to the south east of the climb. The hut itself is an easy hours walk from the car park.
Leaving the hut you walk in a westerly direction towards the Tiefenglacier which you follow upwards and northwards towards the Tiefenstock. Pay attention to the crevasses, rope up if necessary, and scan the Gletschhorn South Ridge as you approach it on it's western side to find the start of the route. The start is located above a fairly steep snow field which leads to a small saddle in the ridge. Depending on conditions this snow field can be frozen so be sure to know how to safely cross it!
Once you've made your way up the snow field, the south ridge awaits. Do not make the mistake of leaving your ice axe and crampons at the start of the route as you will not be coming back this way! (We actually found 2 pairs of crampons.)

Route Description

The route is quite straightforward as it sticks to the well defined ridge all the way to the summit. Rusty old pegs can show you the way should you be in doubt as to where to climb. Be sure to bring plenty of slings as the granite ridge offers plenty of quick sling belays.
Once on the summit continue westward to make your way to the exit from the Gletschhorn. This part of the route involves a lot of downclimbing on (very) loose ground above steep drops so be careful and be sure to test the holds before you bring your weight to bear on them. We unroped for this part, only occasionally short roping to belay particularly tricky or steep parts of the route.
Be sure to look out for the dots sometimes painted on the rocks, these will lead you to the abseil points necessary to cross the last steep part of the route. The snow slope at the bottom of the route can be reached in 2 abseils but only just so I would recommend using the 3rd abseilbelay you come across while abseiling the 2nd length.
Once you have made your way down the steep snow slope you're pretty much home safe but do pay attention not to fall into any of the crevasses on the Tiefenglacier!

Essential Gear

Glacier gear: ice axe, crampons
Plenty of slings, a few small-medium sized friends, a set of rocks.
Helmet!
Rock shoes if you don't want to climb the South Ridge on your heavy boots.
Map: Swiss 1:25000 #1231 'Urseren'
Guidebook: SAC Fuhrer Urner Alps III or Schweiz Plaiser Ost.

External Links

Albert - Heim hut