The route described here is a variant of the classic Cristiano-Carena route to the east spur of Vierge dell'Aroletta. The first ascent was by Renato Quendoz and Osvaldo Cardellina on August 6, 1967. The route description is by Osvaldo Cardellina.

Getting There

From Rifugio Crête Sèche (2410m), follow a faint trail that crosses the namesake stream and go up to the base of the face. Alternatively, from Bivacco Franco Spataro (2600m), angle down in the southwest direction.

Route Description

Start at the low point of the east spur, to the right of the Cristiano-Carena route. Climb a dihedral of about 30 m (four pitons, one left in place and used as foothold). Ascend a 5-meter chimney (one Stubai piton in the crack) and angle right for over 35 m. Traverse for 30 m to the right and up the very exposed and slightly overhanging face on small holds which are not always solid (V+, three pitons, the first and third were left). Keep traversing to the right on a short wall that leads to a ledge about one meter wide; from there, traverse left (V) toward a large boulder vertically attached to a pillar (one piton). Continue angling left for 20 m up a slab with a crack that is difficult to protect with pins (VI). The slab leads to a 10-meter stretch between the Cristiano-Carena route and the Giglio-Manera variation to the same. It is possible to stay lower and continue with one of those two itineraries (317c and 317ca in Buscaini’s guide). The total length is about 180 m; very exposed climb that takes about 4 hours.

Descent

Rappel 40 m from the ledge in the Gully to the North (two pitons in place); then downclimb (III) to the moraine at the base of the face (route Renato Quendoz - Ruggero Busa July 1967). If you continue with the Cristiano-Carena route or its variant, the descent of the north ridge is recommended.

Essential Gear

Standard rack. Two ropes for the rappel.