~The Numbers~

There are multiple gullies going up this face. If this route is climbed from its general base around 7,600ft, it offers up to 1,385ft (422 meters) of climbing to the 8,985ft summit. These routes can be completed in a matter of 2-4 hours, depending on the party, variations, and of course the conditions. If alpine ice is present in the gullies, it can be rated to AI2, with angles on the majority of the climb around 50 degrees, steepening to 70 degrees or thereabouts the further up into the chutes you climb.

~General Information~

When one stands atop Thunder Mountain and looks east, they see the steep northwest face of Telegraph Peak rising out of Coldwater Canyon. When I first saw this peak, I imagined climbing straight up this face. It would provide a more challenging climb than the simple hike-up on the 3-T's trail.

I feel this route offers local climbers an interesting deviation from the norm of walk-ups and boring trails. It is somewhat similar to Baldy Bowl, with longer couliors that retain snow and ice for a longer period of time, as they are shaded from the sun's rays for a longer period of time. I enjoyed this climb more than Baldy Bowl, as it is steeper, and there was far less rockfall (less sunlight on face), as well as a more exposed climb with lots of exposure.

Dry conditions

I believe this route does more justice to Telegraph Peak, instead of the simple walk up 3-T's trail.

I rate this climb as a hard class 3, soft class 4. The loose, broken rock of the San Gabriel Mountain Range turns this into a bit more of a difficult climb in most conditions than it would be in other ranges. There are trees along certain parts of the route that would make fine anchors, although the chances of utilizing any further up the route thins down considerably.

Getting There

There are three basic ways to approach the route.

The most direct route is to simply take the road to the summit of Thunder Mountain, and then head directly east down onto the saddle between Thunder and Telegraph. From that saddle, heading north at the saddle's altitude/elevation will have you walking directly along the face. If conditions are acceptable, simply pick your route up from the various shallow couliors.

The second route involves following the San Antonio Falls / Baldy road up to Baldy notch, and northeast where it continues and connects to Stockton Flat road, in Lytle Creek.

If following the 3-T's trail, simply move up to the saddle between Thunder and Telegraph, which the trail runs along.

Dry winter conditions, seen from Telegraph-Thunder Notch

Route Description

Depending on snowpack and recent conditions, this can be an easy ascent with an excellent ski/snowboard ride down, or a slow dangerously loose route full of choss.

For class 3 climbing, the happy medium lies in picking the exact day, as conditions in the San Gabriels change quickly, and the loose nature of the rock of this range prove frustrating and dangerous if exposed. This route recieves a fair amount of wind heading south up to the summit, which will harden some of the snow in the couliors into acceptable ice with an often plastic nature.

Without snow or ice, the route is a very loose scree/choss scramble that I do not suggest to anyone.

If you take Coldwater Canyon from Baldy Road, you get the most elevation gain possible.

Telegraph's narrow north ridge, a second method of escape and ascent

Descent can either be gained by snowboard/skis, the 3-T's trail (easiest), or by going back down the way you came. Taking the ridgeline north from Telegraph back into Lytle Creek allows you to bag a few of the highpoints along the way, and offers some nice views of the Mojave desert, San Bernardino Mountains, and tons of folks driving up the 15 freeway to get smashed and broke in Vegas.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons, and a helmet. Plenty of loose rock falls down while climbing this route, dislodged by expanding and thawing ice and snow. The rock generally is limited to pebbles on most cold days.

One 60m rope should be sufficient if you wish to protect, along with runners, likely for use on trees.

Bring enough water for a day climb, as there is none along the route.

I've seen photographs online of folks who have skiied and snowboarded down the northwest face, so if you enjoy those sports, this would prove to be one hell of a ride.

Images