White Nightmare is a 200 foot (usually 2 pitches) ice climb that forms to the right of the main Bridal Veil ice routes (to the left of Stairway to Heaven). It's formation is fairly reliable and it is a classic "adventure" route compared to much of the top-roping done in the canyon. Sustained climbing, a quick approach and no waiting in line make this a classic.

Getting There

To get to Provo Canyon:

From Salt Lake City and all points North, drive south on I-15 until you reach the 8th North exit in Orem (Exit 272, or UT-52). There should be a sign for Provo Canyon and Sundance Ski Resort.

Drive east (toward the big mountains) until 8th North divides (approximately 3.7 miles). The right lane will go to Provo, down University Avenue, and the left lane will curve left into Provo Canyon. Check your mileage here, so that you will know where the turnoff for the climb is. (Take the left fork obviously).

From the ramp into Provo Canyon, the primary climbing center's parking lot is 4.7 miles up canyon on the right at Bridal Veil Park/Nunn's Park (most people park in front of the gate on the right side of the highway after exiting). This is where you will park for White Nightmare.

Approach Description: From the gated parking lot at Bridal Veil falls, walk east on the Provo River Parkway (you can see it leaving from the east end of the unplowed parking lot that is gated....it goes through a small forested area with picnic tables....there will be a beaten path, I promise). After 4-5 minutes you will pass the gully on the right for Stairway to Heaven (again, a path will be present). Past this gully you will come to a scree or snow slope that leads to the base of Bridal Veil Falls. Again, a path will be present. Hike to the base of the falls and then traverse to your right ~100-150 feet to the base of White Nightmare.

Route Description

Pitch 1 ascends a steep, wide face with many options available. Belay on the left at an obvious ledge and a 2-bolt anchor (WI4-5).

Jason starting up pitch 1.

Jason halfway up pitch 1.

Pitch 2 climbs right from the belay and up a lower angle section, and another (but shorter) steep section. The climbing is all done on wide faces or curtains. Belay from a tree.

If you have two 60m ropes, you can rappel the two pitches independently. You MAY make it to the ground in one (or in two rappels with a single 60m), but I would not count on it. Bring two ropes or scramble to the right and hike down and around Stairway. This is VERY long and out of the way, and seems scary to be frank.

Essential Gear

-Two 60m ropes (half ropes work well on this wide climb)
-Harness and slings, Screamers/load-limiting draws
-Two Technical ice tools
-Crampons
-8+ ice screws. The pitches are long and steep but they take long screws well.
-Helmet! Always wear a helmet in the Bridal Veil and Stairway drainages.....there are climbers above you and natural rockfall and ice fall is abundant in this area.

Miscellaneous Information

Typically the most reliable time to climb ice in the lower portions of Provo Canyon (Bridal Veil, Stairway to Heaven, Miller's Thriller, etc), is late December to mid January. Some routes are climbable earlier and later than that. Most notably, the first pitch of Stairway to Heaven is often still fat into February, and provides a great place to practice leading lots of different variations or top-roping.

All supplies can be purchased in Provo, including gear at either Hansen's Mountaineering in Orem (1799 N. State in Orem, phone number (801) 226-7498) or at Mountainworks next to the Quarry Climbing Gym in Provo. Both shops stock tools, screws, crampons, a few pairs of boots (including rentals at Hansen's) and anything else you might need. Hansen's is probably the best place to call to inquire about conditions in Provo Canyon and the mixed lines that exist there.

White Nightmare is typically one of the most reliable climbs in the area, based on personal experience.