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| 9 O'clock Couloir   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Oregon, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 44.08009°N / 121.70036°W Route Type: Mountaineering Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: steep snow <45 degrees Number of Pitches: 1 Grade: II
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| Page By: d_shorb Created/Edited: Jan 30, 2007 / Apr 11, 2008 Object ID: 265396 Hits: 1855 Loading... Page Score: 88.67% - 14 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
The Route: 9 O'clock Couloir
This is a sweet trip best done in mid-winter arctic/high pressure conditions: a mellow couloir that can serve as a route to the summit or be done in and of itself. Much like 11 O'clock Couloir, it provides interesting snow climbing in the superb alpine setting within Broken Top's crater. It is skiable for those with an eye for steeps (approx 10 - 15 feet wide and 45 degrees), and has a huge(!) slingable boulder at the top for those that wish to rappel the route. Due to how short the steep section is, this route would certainly be a great introduction to Broken Top couloirs, and couloirs in general.
The route proper:
From inside Broken Top's crater, 9 O'clock couloir is the second prominent couloir looker's left of the summit. Indeed, it becomes obvious when noted above the bergschrund along the Crook Glacier's southwestern edge (see the Topozone link below). Cross the bergschrund, head up steepening slopes (leftward) into the couloir, and be wary of wind loaded slopes and cornices at the top. The couloir presents a full rope length of climbing, two, if your comfort level requires belayed technique across the bergschrund and above.
Once atop the couloir, 35 degree slopes lead right to Broken Top's open western side, and your rising traverse to the summit. Or you may opt for descent of those open slopes (esp. with skis/board). Whatever your fancy, this little couloir supplies great views of both the east and the west side of Broken Top.  Beginning of westside traverse
Winter and spring may be best for exploring this route. In late summer and fall this route may not be preferred due to rockfall, as it is surrounded by huge, loose cliffs.
Getting There  Winter approach is in this photo
Please check with the Deschutes National Forest for clarity on wilderness boundary markings, rules, and accessibility. NO MECHANIZED VEHICLES, be they cars, bikes, snowmobiles, or motorized wheelchairs, are allowed within the Wilderness Area.  A long ski in, or short from the wilderness boundary/Broken Top Trailhead
There are many ways to attain the crater. Conveniently, roads and snowmobile trails make this eastside route fairly accessible year 'round. Skiing, snowshoeing, and hiking offer more wilderness time, and add hours and miles to your day(days).This map of the area between Broken Top and Bachelor should get you started.
Todd Lake Road is the main summer and fall access point for this route, and Dutchman's Flat/Mt. Bachelor Ski Area is the main winter access point.
Three Creeks Lake and Tam McArcthur Rim,accessed via FR 16(from Sisters, OR),is another possible access point.
Note that from the Wilderness boundary near Ball Butte only a few miles lay between the climber and the route proper (a few hours).
Please see the parent pages of this route for more access info. and check out the route photos as well. Additionally, research weather, road closures, and Cascadeclimbers.com and Summitpost.com for trip reports, conditions, and info. Essential Gear Required: Local brew, Crampons, ice axe, helmet, seasonal clothing, and backcountry hiking gear.
Optional:
glacier travel gear(rope, pickets/deadmen, etc.)
Not needed:
Snowmobile inside Wilderness Area!!!!
Rock protection
EXTERNAL LINKS to check before you goCURRENT WEATHER by the National Weather Service.
This Topozone Map of the route location.
WHAT'S ON TAP AT DESCHUTES.
WHAT'S ON TAP AT BEND BREWING COMPANY.
The Oregon Forum on Cascadeclimbers.
A list of food options in Bend.
A list of hotels in the Bend area.
What's up at Bachie?
Images
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Cascade Volcanoes
