-This page previously served all Mt Harwood North Face Alpine routes. It now serves the single route climbed that day, "Hardwood Couloir". Further routes climbed this season will be added seperately.-

Moving up the route

Hardwood Couloir, 518 Meters in length, Class 4-ish, Alpine Ice Grade 2.

This is a winter alpine route, and it relies on some level of snow. I personally do not suggest climbing this route at all for any reason in the dry season. I also do not have the guts to scree-ski down it as a method of descent into the Stockton Flat area. This side of Mt Harwood has many cliffs, usually no more than 50ft tall. "Happening upon" one would be a bad thing.

The majority of the route, and a strange long piece of red yarn...

The rating I placed is obviously flexible, depending on conditions. At best, it is a fun, half-day (not including approach) route, which is difficult enough to be interesting. At worst, it is filled with powder, offering what I call "San Gabriel Mixed" climbing, which basically equates to climbing a scree slope with alternating sections of weak and thin alpine ice, and unconsolidated snow.

It is best to wait til slightly later in the season, say mid-late April, when the majority of snow has melted, but temps are low enough to permit a good freeze-thaw cycle.

Getting There

This climb is approached from Stockton Flat, in the greater Lytle Creek area.

The gate is often conveniently closed at the westernmost approach point for this route. If one was to continue on this road past the gate, one would reach Baldy Notch.

The start of the route

Park at the westernmost section of road in Stockton Flat, on 3N06. The elevation at this point is given as 6080ft on the Tom Harrison Mt Baldy & Cucamonga Wilderness map. I have seen it in varying elevations on other maps, and will use this map and figure as the standard throughout.

This spot is easily identified, as there is a gate just 50M south of it. The road makes a turn south and heads uphill, where it winds its way towards Baldy Notch.

From this parking spot, begin the approach by heading west. There is plenty of shade along the way from the old pine trees that have not yet fallen prey to the many fires we recieve. Just north of this approach is a large open riverbed. Handrail (parallel) this route west. The route splits several times, so always keep on the south side. You should eventually see Mt Harwood's impressive Northeast Face climbing out of the canyon you are in.

The location of the route start is in the coordinates on this page, using Google Maps. Please copy this location down in order to find the correct couloir. If all else fails, this couloir is located in a system of several fine couloirs that offer climbing of pretty much the same grade. Ones on the left/west of Hardwood are steeper in spots (up to 65 degrees or so), and are more challenging.

Route Description

Route starts at 7,000ft, and terminates at 8,700ft, dumping you onto the Devils Backbone Trail, moving its way up towards Baldy.

The route begins up a series of open couloirs with easy ridges on either side. The angle for the majority of the route is 50 degrees. Route steepens and heads into narrowing terrain.

Route makes a right/westerly turn, heading southwest until you reach the prominent snowfield/open area. For my own purposes, I named this feature "Devils Snowfield", as it is below Devils backbone (Regardless of the fact that I'm tired of everyhting being Devil's this or that). From this point, move directly up. Snowfield ends with some trees and lots of loose larger rock around, and eventually jumps right over the crest onto Devils Backbone Trail.

Devils Snowfield

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Descend via Devils Backbone, or ski back down, taking care to avoid cliffs.

Protection throughout climb, if you choose to use it, comes in the form of trees. Use of rock protection is very severely limited, due to the loose nature of the rock.

This route was climbed when there was around 6ft of powder in some sections of the couloir. In ideal conditions, one could expect harder conditions, and a more narrow couloir with better climbing characteristics.

Essential Gear

-=Unroped=-
-1x Standard ice axe
OR
-2x Medium-length Alpine tools
-Standard mountaineering crampons

-=Protected=-

Group Gear
-2x 60M dry ropes
-2-3x 24 inch snow pickets (36 inch or so longer pickets may be overkill unless early season climb with heavy snow)

Individual Gear
-1-2x 48 inch runners
-1-2x cordelletes

The majority of placed protection here will be similar to what one uses in Canyoneering, with trees being the primary recipient of attention. There are plenty of cliffs along the way, but I would not bother placing protection from them, due to the general instability of rock in the area.

Hardwood from afar

This area is known as the "Backside of 4" to the Mt Baldy Ski Resort. Skis or a snowboard are an effective method of descent. Please mind my complete lack of experience in this field, as I do not ski nor snowboard as of yet! Either way, mind the sudden cliffs unless you wish to become airborne.

Topped out

Images