I offer this page for those of you, and I'm among your number, who find yourselves wanting to get your hands dirty at good climbing areas but, for whatever reasons, unable to partake in the roped climbing most others are doing there.

Trellis is a 5.0 route followed correctly, but it offers variations making it harder, up to about 5.2, and one that even puts you in the realm of 5.4 or 5.5 (though that's just one move).

Getting There

Locals will know their own best ways. For others, though, these directions are easiest to follow:

From the western part of I-495, a piece of the Capital Beltway, take the exit for Route 193, Georgetown Pike; this is the first exit south of the Maryland border. Drive west for a few miles until you see the well-signed road leading to Great Falls Park. Turn right and follow the road about a mile to the entrance station. There are two large parking lots after the entrance station.

To reach Juliet’s Balcony, hike south from the parking lot, past the three falls overlooks, and onto the River Trail. After passing the Sandbox and Dihedrals access points (there are signs indicating them), the trail drops down some wooden steps, makes a bridged stream crossing, and then climbs a set of wooden steps. At the top of the climb, the trail splits in three, with the River Trail heading right. The left fork just goes a few feet to a rocky overlook of the river (scrambling opportunities here). Go straight, though, up to the rock outcrop directly ahead of you. Once there, you will be atop the Juliet’s Balcony crag. Look down to view the Balcony just to make sure you’re in the right place. From the parking lot, it takes around 20 minutes to hike here.

Head just downstream from the main cliff and look for an obvious break. Class 4 scrambling will get you down this break, across a gully (the base of Trellis), and then up onto the Balcony. If this Class 4 downclimbing does not appeal to you, head a bit further downstream and look for a wider, gentler break.

Route Description

Trellis

Variation

Climb the gully and crack system on the left. Near the top, you have two choices: continue the same way, which will take you through a short move requiring pretty much only your arms; or cut right on a sloping, exposed ramp with few good handholds. Continuing straight is harder but safer and more fun; most people cut right, though. Do both.

The rock is very solid here. Holds are excellent and there are great opportunities to place your feet safely and comfortably.

Variation (see photo on right): At the base of that slab in the upper center of the photo, there is a little room for your feet. From there, an awkward and exposed move to the right puts you into a dark spot that’s something like a cross between an overhang and a chimney, and from there it’s a fairly simple climb straight to the top. To reach that slab, climb straight up from beneath it (easy Class 5 with moderate exposure but no river) or climb Trellis until you can traverse the rock face to the slab.

Essential Gear

There's no need for anything but your hands and feet here. Rock shoes are helpful, but you ought to be fine in hiking boots or even hiking sandals with good grip. However, it's your neck, so if you want to rope up, do so; don't let pride put you at unnecessary risk.