FA. P. Callis and D. Davis, August 1963. FWA. T Sorenson and A Henault, Winter 1978. F. Ski descent T. Jungen and P. Spricenieks, Sept 1995! Yes, this has been skied down!

This is a classic North Face route on a classic mountian nicknamed "The King"

Getting There

There are many ways to get to the Helmet/Robson col. This is how we did it based upon the description in Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Sean Dougherty.

From the visitor’s station, follow the Robson River about a half mile short of Berg Lake. About 14 miles. You may want to continue on to Berg lake to set up camp for the night. Cross the Robson River

and gain the terminal moraine of the Mist Glacier. Follow the ridge of the moraine onto the rock buttress.

Negotiate the loose rock ledges and fifth class moves and beware of falling rock.

Follow cairns where ever you can find them. Continue on the buttress and finish on the right side to reach the Berg Glacier. Negotiate crevasses and steep snow to the base of the North Face. This can take most climbers anywhere from 6 to 8 hours from Berg Lake. Bivi at the col or find a ledge below the face to set up camp.

Route Description

Find a way into the bergschrund and ascend the 200 feet of vertical snow and ice to gain the 55-65* slope of the North Face.

Difficulty will depend on the condition of the snow and it can change through out the climb. Negotiate bands of rock higher on the face and gain the ridge as far left as possible so to spend as little time as possible traversing the rest of the Emperor Ridge. Continue on the Emperor Ridge to the broad summit plateau.

Descend the Kain route for a classic mountain traverse!

Essential Gear

Snow stakes, ice screws, set of rock nuts (optional, we didn't have any but we were also run out over 50 ft. on mixed ground), two ice tools, a lot of determination.

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