| Beginner's Chimney (5.1) Route |
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| Beginner's Chimney (5.1)   | 
| Page Type: Route Lat/Lon: 38.99620°N / 77.2536°W Route Type: Trad Climbing, Toprope, Scrambling Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Time Required: Less than two hours Rock Difficulty: 5.0 (YDS)
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| Page By: Bob Sihler Created/Edited: Apr 29, 2007 / Jun 21, 2007 Object ID: 289223 Hits: 835 Loading... Page Score: 87.02% - 3 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
This route is great for unroped climbing, and that's why I've added it; it's probably a waste of time if you use rope. It is near the middle of the Dihedrals crag, and you can preview it by walking about 20 yards upstream from the Mather plaque at the top of Dihedrals and looking down.
It is a safe route as far as rock climbs at Great Falls go. Of course, you can fall and hurt or kill yourself, but the route is generally not steep enough to put you at great risk of losing your balance and falling. The rock is solid and the holds are plentiful. The exposure warrants respect, but you are not directly above the river (you could be after wet periods and during other times when water levels are high, though).
Getting ThereTake Exit 44, the second exit south of the MD-VA line on I-495, part of the Capital Beltway, and drive south for a few miles until you reach the signed turnoff to Great Falls Park. Turn right and drive a mile to the entrance station. There is a 5$ entrance fee. Park in one of the large parking lots.
Hike downstream past the marked falls overlooks, pick up River Trail, and hike for 5-10 minutes until you reach an outcrop high above the river. You will know this is the right one if you see a plaque dedicated to Stephen Mather on one of the rocks. This is the top of the Dihedrals crag. The top of this route is about 20 yards upstream from the plaque.
Just past the plaque area, the trail passes a sign indicating access to the Dihedrals climbing area. The easiest way down will involve Class 3 scrambling and will put you at the downstream end of the crag. Work your way upstream to reach Beginner's Chimney. The river may be high enough to block easy passage, so another way down is to scramble down from the upstream end of Dihedrals and then head downstream. This way, too, can be barred by the river. In that case, consider downclimbing the route or coming back when water levels are lower.
Route DescriptionThe pictures below, with the captions beneath them, tell the story.
Lower End-- The lower part of Beginner's Chimney at Dihedrals in Great Falls. It's really, as is evident, more of a crack route for the first half or so, leading to an option of whether to follow a small chimney or to break out onto the adjacent face, which is a little more challenging, and fun. |
Upper Part--The upper end. The shadowed section is the chimney, with plenty of good holds. To the right is the face option, where the climbing approaches 5.2/5.3 and is more exposed and fun. The route is probably a waste of time for roped climbers, even beginners, but it is a fine opportunity for "safe" Class 5 climbing without a rope. |
Essential Gearhelmet; rock shoes or lightweight hiking boots
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