| Original Juliet's Balcony (5.1) Route |
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| Original Juliet's Balcony (5.1)   | 
| Page Type: Route Lat/Lon: 38.99510°N / 77.2524°W Route Type: Scrambling Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Time Required: Less than two hours Rock Difficulty: 5.1 (YDS)
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| Page By: Bob Sihler Created/Edited: Apr 29, 2007 / Jan 31, 2008 Object ID: 289294 Hits: 1118 Loading... Page Score: 86.8% - 3 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
If you enjoy getting into Class 5 climbing but do not, for whatever reason, climb with rope, the named crags at Great Falls can leave you feeling a little left out, as most of the routes there really are not too reasonable for most free soloists.
You could, of course, start using rope, but something more expedient would be to seek out this route and others like it. Let your eyes guide you, and be flexible and creative. You'll have fun and also feel you've found something worth doing here, as opposed to the endless but easy Class 3 scrambling to be found throughout the park.
Another plus-- although there is exposure very much worth taking seriously, you will not be directly over the river.Route Information
This climbing spot is near the downstream end of Seclusion, between the Romeo's Retreat and Nylons routes.
There are two basic options for starting, and, from them, more options open as you climb. The true route follows the left side of the downstream-facing wall. Harder variations still within reason for scramblers okay with some easy Class 5 are possible.
Some Variations:
#1-- Climb the wall that faces downstream (see the photo at left). The most obvious place to start is the large crack (around 5.2). After climbing it, it is easiest to head slightly right and then upclimb; expect 5.0-5.2 conditions as you meet the upper parts of the unnamed climb between OJB and Nylons. Left takes you into the upper stretch of Original Juliet's Balcony.
#2-- Around the corner from #1, on the river-facing wall, look for the crack shown in the photo at top right in this sction. The lower portion of this climb has some short, fun moves in the 5.3-5.4 range. There are good holds and moderate exposure, but you are not directly over the river, and this route is suitable for unroped climbers who have soloed 5.4 successfully before. The second right-side photo here shows a close-up view of conditions about midway on this route. Getting through this spot requires moves in the 5.0-5.2 range.
Getting ThereFrom the western part of I-495, a piece of the Capital Beltway, take Exit 44 for Route 193, Georgetown Pike; this is the second exit south of the Maryland border. Drive west for a few miles until you see the well-signed road leading to Great Falls Park. Turn right and follow the road about a mile to the entrance station. There are two large parking lots after the entrance station.
To reach Seclusion, hike south from the parking lot, past the three falls overlooks, and onto the River Trail. After passing the Sandbox and Dihedrals access points (there are signs indicating them), the trail drops down some wooden steps, makes a bridged stream crossing, and then climbs a set of wooden steps. At the top of the climb, the trail splits in three, with the River Trail heading right. Follow the River Trail across some wooden planks. Shortly after them, you will come to an eroded area that has a nice view of the upstream end of Seclusion (with the Seclusion route). It’s about 40 more yards to the top of the crag.
Relatively easy Class 4/low-5 descents are possible from the downstream end of the crag. An even easier approach is a bit farther downstream at the downstream end of the Romeo’s Ladder crag.
It should take less than 30 minutes to hike from the parking area to the top of Seclusion.
Essential GearHelmet, rock shoes (lightweight hiking boots will probably do)
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