R.I.P. is an exciting and challenging climb in the Dihedrals area, and it places one high above the Potomac River. It has two sections, the lower of which is the harder because the rock there is smooth and offers little to grab outside the small crack following the corner that defines that stretch. The upper section is entirely different rock and falls more into the 5.2 range, good for scramblers looking for something stimulating but not prohibitive. In all, the climb is about 55 vertical feet, with upper and lower sections being of about equal length and connected by a short, smooth ramp.

Getting There

Just past the entrance station, turn right and park in the climbers parking area. Hike toward the river. In a minute or two, head right on the River Trail. About 5-10 minutes more of hiking, depending on your pace, will take you to a prominent outcrop overlooking the river. This is not the first outcrop you will pass, but you will recognize the right one by spotting the interpretive sign there and a plaque dedicated to Stephen Mather on one of the rocks.

Just beyond this outcrop, which is the top of the Dihedrals area, there is a sign indicating access to the Dihedrals climbing area. Follow the path and then do some Class 3 downclimbing to reach the river. Hike upstream until you see the "ramp" pictured on this page. Another means of access is via the 5.1 Beginner's Chimney route, located a few yards upstream from the plaque. Yet a third way is to find the top of R.I.P. (see the photo on this page), which is about 20 yards upstream from the plaque, and rappel down.

All that said, I recommend rappelling to the base and climbing by toprope unless you are going to do the variation described in the next section. The reasons: the rock on the lower section is so smooth that it would be difficult and dangerous to downclimb it unroped, as a fall would likely result in a dunking in the Potomac River, which would likely result in drowning; and there is no safe way to walk to the base, either, as smooth cliffs with few or no places for the hands and feet bar easy passage.

Route Description

Ramp to access variation

Upper part

Lower section

Lower part from above

Lower Section-- The rock on this portion is extremely slippery because it has been polished by the Potomac River for God only knows how many thousands or millions of years. With a toprope, it really shouldn't be too hard, but an unroped climber faces the likelihood of a fall into the river, and drowning as a result, from a slip.

Connecting Ramp-- The top of the first section meets this ramp, which you then follow up and to the right for a few feet until you reach the base of the upper section of the route.

Upper Section-- Just head straight up, using cracks, hand-sized outcrops, and the walls. Conditions here are 5.4-5.5, and the rock is not the same slippery stone found on the lower half of the climb. Have fun!

VARIATION: Highly recommended for scramblers who want to avoid the slick rock of the lower section but can handle the 5.4ish conditions of the upper section. Downclimb Beginner's Chimney and work a few yards left to the ramp, or use the downstream access point and hike upstream until you see the ramp. Ascend the ramp on either its right or left side (Class 3-4 conditions), and then turn left to face the upper section. Enjoy the climb!

Essential Gear

Toproping gear-- great natural anchors above
Helmet a good idea
Rock shoes
Most climbers use a toprope at Great Falls, but some do lead. However, if you are interested in leading this route, please study the photos and determine what you might need to bring with you. I do not have the experience or the knowledge to list that gear, and there is no way I'm going to guess just for the sake of making this page look more complete.

Red Tape

It is illegal to alter the rock in order to place protection. Local practice and ethics frown upon using anything other than natural gear, and the unwritten but widely accepted rule is that if you can't lead just using natural gear, you should toprope the route as most others do.