This is a stellar route with great protection, though it will be a challenge to the 5.8 climber (and to most 5.9 climbers). It is a diagonal, right to left crack, hand to fist size all the way. Watch the fall; you will swing if you come off and there are a few ledges to hit along the way if you do. The name was apparently a response from one of the first ascentionists to his partner's comment, "this is better than sex.".

Getting There

From the small flat area at the base of Classic Crack on Inner Outlet, as you face Classic Crack, look left. The gap between Inner Outlet and Vertigo View narrows between two boulders. Go through the gap. You will find yourself standing on top of a boulder with a fin of rock sloping down beside it on the left. Cross over onto a shallow channel in the fin and go down about 20 ft. until you can rejoin the trail. Go down a few steps on the trail and then follow it as it switches back left. A small flat area just before the trail switches back right at the end of the Vertigo View formation marks the start of the route: a short left facing corner that leads to a crack leading left around a roof.

Route Description

Move up the left facing corner until you are under the roof. Follow the crack left out from under the roof and onto the face. Jam your way up the crack past two bulges which constitute the crux in the last 1/4 of the route. There are ample footholds on the face, so standing to place gear is no problem. Getting moving again is the tough part. The anchor is a slung horn at the top of the crack (very easy to spot).

Essential Gear

This climb has been led quite comfortably with eight #3 and #3.5 Camalots. It has also been led, much less comfortably, with one #3 Camalot, using a pink tricam and a wedged, fully open .75 Camalot to protect the crux. A set of Tricams, a set of hexes with a couple extra of the larger sizes and #1-3.5 Camalots will get you through in style. One 60m rope gets you back to the ground from the anchor.