This is a difficult route with fairly sustained climbing. It will take your whole bag of tricks, from face climbing to offwidth, to get up this thing. Thanks to Bob Archbold for the route.

Getting There

Walk up to the head of the 4/5 gully. The coordinates as you stand at the base of Eyetooth are N 43*50.940'/W 103*31.957'.

Eyetooth

As you face Eyetooth, at the head of the gully, look left. You will see a large rock pedestal with some grass on top. The route starts on top of the pedestal in a chimney right in the middle. Chain anchors should be visible on the face at the top of the first pitch.

Looking down from the pedestal

Route Description

Stem up between a fin of rock on the left and the right wall of the chimney, using a finger crack near the outside corner of the right wall for protection. When it gets too wide to stem, move into the finger crack. Move up using the crack and large flakes to the left until you get a rest stance at the base of an offwidth section near the top. Climb the offwidth to a roof. Two or three moves to the right take you around the corner to the anchor. From the semi-hanging stance, clip a bolt up and right. Face climb up trending slightly left, then back right to a crack. This starts as thin fingers and gradually widens as it goes up. The angle eases a bit as you move up to a stance below the final offwidth. Weasel your way into the crack and up to the top.

Essential Gear

Nuts, cams up to #5 Camalot, extra yellow-orange alien size cams may be helpful. Two ropes to get down.