This route is across from Hang a Right on Fourth Ave. at the top of the 4/5 gully. It is a Larry S. route, and as such it looks improbable from the ground. Rest assured, it is all there and the climbing is great.

Getting There

Walk up the 4/5 gully to the base of Eyetooth. Look right and you will see a small triangular patch of grass that extends into a deep chimney uphill from the base of Eyetooth on that side. A faint path leads up to the patch of grass and the start of the route. The chimney is the last one facing west before the head of the gully on that side.

Route Description

Start at a finger and hand crack on the right as you face the back of the chimney. This is steep and short. Easier climbing goes around right for a few feet, then traverses back left to rejoin the crack system. Continue up the thin crack in the shallow corner to a lieback flake for the left hand. At the top of the flake make a hard step right to some more thin crack climbing. A bit of easier climbing on the face and in a wide groove to the left, brings you to the crux. Go back right to the thin crack which bottoms out at a blank section of face. Step up and clip a bolt. This is a tough clip; it has to be to keep you off the sloping ledge below. Past the bolt the climbing eases. Bolts and slings provide the anchor.

Essential Gear

Nuts with extra small sizes. Cams to #3 Camalot. Extra green-red Aliens or equivalent. Two ropes to get down.