This is a very high quality, 4 pitch ice route up a beautiful 2-tiered limestone cliff. Apparently the lower two pitches can be thin and partially detached from the rock; this section has been known to fall off during early season warm spells but still reform later.
The lower section is generally too exposed to falling ice to accomodate more than one party, but the upper tier is often wide enough for parties to spread out between the left and right sides.
The route has serious avalanche danger from above; the slopes below the route are largely swept bare with the avalanche runout scar reaching almost to the creek. Contrary to what is stated in Waterfall Ice, this route apparently is not regularly bombed for avalanche control. If there is any doubt re: conditions, call the Banff Park Warden's office and speak to one of the climbing wardens; they will offer their opinion on current conditions and safety.

hike up the avalanche swept slope to the start

Use Joe Josephson's Waterfall Ice guide for details, Warden Office numbers, etc.

Getting There

Take the Trans-Canada Highway west from Banff for 9 km. Go up to the Sunshine ski area and park in the parking lot. Walk to the west end of the parking lot; the upper part of the climb is visible from here, on the right (north) wall of the canyon looking west.
Go west upstream along the creek for a short distance, then head up the avalanche-swept slope on the right, occasionally traversing back and forth along rock ledges to get to the base. About an hour from the car.

Route Description

coming up first pitch of the second tier

on the first tier

Start from bolted belay anchor in rock on right side of falls. Climb the lower tier in two WI-3 pitches; bolted anchors on left side at top of first and second pitches.
From top of lower tier, traverse right and up along snow ledge/low angle ramp to base of upper falls.
Climb the upper tier in two pitches. Either start up the right side via an easy, relatively short pitch to a belay cave with fixed anchors (this is on the descent route), or go up further to the left on a steep pitch of WI-4 and set up a belay below the final pitch. Finish with a long final pitch (crux)of WI-5 to the top; rap anchors in rock on the right.

Essential Gear

60m ropes
screws

External Links

The best web places to get current conditions for ice routes in the Rockies are:
WILL GADD'S ICE PAGES and LIVE-THE-VISION.COM
Over the last few years, both of these sites have gotten alot of postings with route info.

Images