This route is on the South face of Station 13, a free-standing spire just past the top of the 2/3 gully. It is fairly consistent for the grade, with some interesting crack climbing, face climbing and a couple of roofs to turn. Because it sits behind Spires 3 and four, it stays in the shade until mid-morning.

Getting There

Go to the top of the 2/3 gully and over the little saddle on the left (Spire 2) side. A path branches off to the right immediately, taking you over to the base of the spire looming over you at this point. There is a large boulder at the base of the spire on the side facing you. The route starts to the right of that boulder

Route Description

Once at the base, you should see a bolt about 15 feet up and to the right of the start. Face climb without too much difficulty up to the bolt. A few more moves and another bolt lead to right facing flake/crack. Into this you go and up until it ends. Step right to a finger crack beneath a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up a few feet to a bolt. After the clip move up and left. You are shooting for a crack that leads to the left corner of the major roof above you. Move up into the corner and under the roof. These are some awkward moves; a good #3 Camalot placement at the bottom of the corner should ease your mind somewhat. Traverse under the roof on some thin footholds to the right hand edge. Now climb up and over a smaller roof and bulge above. Relatively easy face climbing above leads to the top. You will pass another bolt on your way. It is technically part of the 5.7 route up the East face, clip it if you so desire.

Essential Gear

Set of nuts. Cams up through #3 Camalot, with 2-3 pieces (cams or hexes) at that size. 4-5 long runners. Two ropes to get down from the bolt anchor at the top.