The Fatiron is the large slab of rock just to the north of the Maiden and just east and south of the Devils Thumb at the southern end of the Flatirons group. This climb lies just north of Eldorado Canyon and is accessed via the South Mesa trail-head.

The route described here, is not the one Gerry Roach refers to in his "Top 10" Flatiron routes. This route travels mostly to the right (north) of that route and share's little if anything besides the rappel anchors with that route.

The ascent of the east face is divided into two climbs on east facing slabs. There is a short rappel involved after reaching the first of two summits. The first, easternmost, slab involves 650� of climbing to a pointed summit while the second, westernmost, slab involves another 350� of climbing.

Spectacular views of the Maiden to the south and the rest of the Flatirons group to the north await you on this splendid climb!

Fatiron from the base of the Maiden

Getting There

From Boulder, drive south on Broadway/CO-93 ~2 miles to the entrance road (signed) for Eldorado Canyon (Eldorado Springs Dr.). Drive ~1.5 miles to the South Mesa trailhead which will be on your right. From Golden, drive north on CO-93 for ~15 miles to the entrance (signed) for Eldorado Canyon (Eldorado Springs Dr.). Turn left (west) and drive on this road for ~1.5 miles to the South Mesa trail-head on the right.

This approach involves a bit of a bushwhack to get to. Hike the South Mesa trail for ~2 miles to the northern-most junction between it and the Shadow Canyon trail. Here you will be due east of the Fatiron and the Maiden as well. Look for a water trough (see photo) and turn due west (left) here and take the Shadow Canyon trail for a couple hundred feet or so and then start ascending a faint climbers trail towards talus heading directly for the Fatiron. The route starts in the notch between the large east face and a smaller slab called the Fatironette.

Water "Trough"

**MAP!**

Shadow Canyon Trail Junction

Route Description

We used a 70 m rope for all of these pitches. Pitch length of course will be different with the use of a 60 m rope!

P1: (40 m) Climb straight up the face and to the right of a left (south) facing crack system towards some trees. There are just enough features to get some small gear (nuts & Camalots to #1) placed. Once to the trees, it flattens out a bit, and then climbs a steeper slab for 20� above a large tree. Sling the tree and stem on the slab and a right (north) facing dihedral. Belay from atop this slab. (5.4).

Pitch #1

P2: (65 m) Climb straight up the face and into or just to the right of a shallow depression. There are a few spots to get gear in right at the beginning of the pitch, but then its run out for ~75� so be very confident leading on featureless and lichen covered slab! You will be aiming for a thick flake ~75� above the top of pitch one. Continue climbing above this and bear somewhat left towards more protectable terrain, then right again to a large tree below a steep and wide crack. (5.5 R).

Pitch #2

P3: (69 m) Begin this pitch by stemming high in a wide crack/flare. I placed a #2 C4 low, then reached high and placed a #1 C4 to protect the move out to the right onto the face. Climb out right, and then move back left above the crack which is overhung slightly by a smooth bulge. The terrain eases a bit and then begins to get run out again half way. The line moves left (south) somewhat towards another shallow depression. Climb into the depression and hold onto a left facing crack system that accepts very small nuts. There is some exposure here as you are getting closer to the south face cliffs. Climb right (north) up into a bowl, and then out on top. The summit is now only 20 m or so above you and the terrain eases and accepts gear more willingly. (5.5).

Pitch #3

D1: (First Descent) Down-climb approximately 100� south west to a small tree that is slung with two (blue/purple) slings with two rap rings. This anchor is also backed up by being slung under a natural rock arch. (As of 9/15/07). From here, rappel towards a larger tree, but stay north of it, for ~40�. The rap is overhung on the last 10�.

P4: (65m) From the point where the rappel drops you, traverse up slightly and north on easy terrain towards a large tree that provides a great belay stance. Climb straight up on the north side of a right facing crack system. You can sling two trees for protection, then move left (south) up onto the face. Ascend the line to another large tree and set up a belay here. (5.4).

West Slab P4 & P5

P5: (30 m) Climb easier terrain up towards the left heading for the summit. You will see a large crack/chimney/opening just below and to the right (north) of the summit. Climb around this to the left and reach the summit block after a very short pitch. (5.4).

Pitch #5 Belay

D2: (Second Descent) Head south around the summit block and look for another small tree with slings/rings. This rappel stance is significantly smaller than the first one so caution is advised when setting up! Rappel from here ~45� to the ground below. The last 15� is overhung. From there, the standard descent is to the north side of the Fatiron. One could also circumnavigate the ridge to the west and descend to the south as well.

Final Rappel

Essential Gear

We used a 70 m rope for all of these pitches. Pitch length of course will be different with the use of a 60 m rope! Full set of nuts, some hexes and we placed Camalots from #0.3 to #4. Long runners and/or cordelette are helpful for slinging trees and mini arches. Helmet and rappelling gloves recommended also.

External Links

Flatironsclimbing.com

Total Boulder

Boulder Open Space

Gerry Roach Flatirons

Mountain Project; Fatiron

Images



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