Kitty Hawk is absolutely one of the very best routes in the Canadian Rockies and definitely belongs on a Top 10 list (along with 20 or 30 other Rockies ice climbs). Joe Josephson likens the atmosphere of this climb to that of Polar Circus and the Sorceror, two other world-class routes in Canada. The first ascent was actually accomplished via rope-solo and apparently given a sandbag WI-4 rating. Depending on how it is formed and the time of season, the crux pillar (top pitch) can vary from easy to hard WI-5, and can have desperate overhanging mushrooms and chandeliery ice at its crux bulge. Alternatively, it can form up big and fat, albeit still very steep and sustained.
The route spills over a 120m high vertical limestone wall and drains a funnel-shaped bowl high on the east face of Mount Elliot. Given that position, the route can have extreme avalanche danger and mounds of avalanche debris are normally accumulated at the bottom of the climb, below the narrow entry slot. Although described as 4 or 5 pitches long in J. Josephson's Waterfall Ice guidebook, the route is basically 2 real pitches, each about 60m in length. The bottom section up through the entry slot can be either soloed, simul-climbed or quickly pitched out.

Getting There

the David Thompson Highway

heading up to the entry slot

The route is located along the David Thompson Highway (Provincial Highway 11), above the west shore of Abraham Lake and about 20 minutes east of the Saskatchewan River Crossing where the the David Thompson meets the Icefields Parkway (Hi 93). The climb is also situated about 50 km west of Nordegg, the nearest full-service town (in winter) with accomodations, food, etc. The DT Highway/Saskatchewan River Crossing is about an hour's drive north from Lake Louise (that time is highly dependant on road conditions).
Park at the south end of a tall road cut 38 km east of the Icefields Parkway. Hike up the steep road cut to its top; the trees open up a short distance into the forest and from there you can see the route. Follow what will hopefully be a well packed trail through the fairly dense forest along the right side of the drainage coming down from Kitty Hawk; occasional flagging tape will be seen on the trees and helps to mark the route. Eventually you drop into the main drainage coming out of the narrow chasm at the start of the route; a scary (and stupid) place to be hiking if avalanche conditions prevail. About 1 hour from the car.

Route Description

starting up the crux

walking back down to the single bolt rap anchor below the main falls

Either solo or otherwise quickly climb up into the narrow approach slot on low angle snow and/or ice, for about 80m to the start of the main falls. A single good bolt is on the right wall about 40-50m up; this can be used as a belay and is commonly used as a rap anchor on the descent.
The start of the main falls may have a sheltered belay cave to tuck into behind the curtain. If not, this position is fairly well exposed to falling ice.
Up the first 55-60m pitch on WI-4. Set up a belay, commonly on the left side and hopefully out of the line of falling ice from the last pitch.
The top crux pitch is a full 60m if you go to the very top; about 30 to 40 feet up there is a very steep section that is frequently mushroomed and overhanging. Above that, the route is a sustained near-vertical to vertical pillar, eventually easing off near the top.
Descend the route in two long rappels off V-threads. From the base of the main falls, walk (assuming the gully is snow filled) down to the single bolt anchor mentioned above that is on the right (facing in) wall. One long rappel from there takes you out the bottom of the slot.

Essential Gear

ice screws
60m ropes

External Links

The best web places to get current conditions for ice routes in the Rockies are:
WILL GADD'S ICE PAGES and LIVE-THE-VISION.COM
Over the last few years, both of these sites have gotten alot of postings with route info.

Accomodations

Locals commonly just get up very early from Calgary, Canmore/Banff or Jasper and make the long drive up or down the Icefields Parkway to the David Thompson Highway. Staying in Lake Louise or Field can be a decent compromise. Several closer lodging options for visiting climbers are, from best to worst:
The Crossing Resort at the junction of the Icefields Parkway and the David Thompson Highway, about 20-25 minutes from Kitty Hawk. Unfortunately, they don't usually open until the 2nd Friday in March, but if you are there late season and the routes are still in, this is the cleanest and most comfortable alternative, with a bar, jacuzzi, and restaurant.
If closed, the next close option would be the Rampart Creek Hostel, a short distance up (north) the Icefields Parkway from the crossing/junction. This place is ok if you enjoy an evening of climbing stench and ice fleas.
The last nearby option is the Nordegg Lodge, a rather grim working man's motel about a half hour east of Kitty Hawk. However, the restaurant and bar at the Nordegg Lodge are great, you can get a good steak, shoot pool and get tanked before and after doing the climb. Better options for a room do exist in Nordegg at a number of B&B or cottage type places

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