| Shisha Pangma North Ridge (Normal) Route |
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| Shisha Pangma North Ridge (Normal)   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Tibet, China, Asia Lat/Lon: 28.35000°N / 85.78300°E Season: Fall Time Required: Expedition Rock Difficulty: Class 4
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| Page By: Alan Arnette Created/Edited: Oct 21, 2007 / Oct 28, 2007 Object ID: 349623 Hits: 831 Loading... Page Score: 84.3% - 8 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewShisha Pangma is the 14th highest peak in the world at 26,335 feet or 8,027 meters. It is located in southern Tibet and uniquely stands somewhat alone from the main Himalayan range. The expedition met in Kathmandu, flew to Lhasa and then drove over the Tibetan Steps to our Base Camp. The six week expedition was my fifth climb on an 8000m mountain.
Getting ThereWe took the "normal route" for the climb. After spending almost 10 days getting to Nepal then Lhasa, we drove to the Chinese Base Camp at 16,400', and took 5 nights, 4 days to further acclimatize in mid September. Next we moved to Advanced Base Camp with Yaks doing the heavy loads. ABC was at 18,500'.Route DescriptionThe actual climbing finally began after more than two weeks. We used the second half of September for "climb high, sleep low" acclimatization climbs to Camp 1 at 21,000' and Camp 2 at 23,300'. Most of the route was snow. It was generally safe to camp 2 but there were some big crevasses. The summit bid was scheduled to start after a rest break back at ABC but a good weather window never materialized.
The plan for the bid, was to return to C1 and C2 then climb the steep slope to Camp 3 at 24,600'. From C3, we were to go for the summit. Shisha Pangma has a false summit at 26,286' or 8012m but we wanted to go for the true summit at 26,335' or 8027m. The climb from C3 is steep but not too difficult. To the true summit, we would have either had to negotiate a knife edge traverse or take a slightly longer route that has crevasse danger. No one summitted in 2007 to my knowledge due to heavy snows and dangerous conditions on both side of Shisha Pangma.
Essential GearNormal 8000m gear: wool for base layers, down for warmth layers, gortex for wind. Crampons, ice axe. Some fixed ropes over cravesses
External LinksPictures, Video, TR and complete gear listFAQQ: Which route was used?
A: The north ridge route. This is what is considered the "normal" route. There are four camps established at roughly 18,300', 21,000', 23,000' and 24,600'. The summit is 26,335''. An interim camp named the Depot Camp was used on the early climbs to store gear and for one night. It was at 19,200'. The route follows the Shishapangma glacier to the Eastern Cwm, up the North Ridge then traverses the North East face to the summit ridge.
Q: Anything special or unique about Shisha?
A: Shisha is often called an "easy" 8000m mountain in the sense that there is almost no technical climbing (e.g. vertical walls). However there is always avalanche dangers plus the biggest challenges is that it actually has two summits. Many climbers who claim they have summited Shisha have actually only attained the fore-summit (Central Summit). The true summit (Main Summit) is another 3 meters (12 feet) higher but requires a traverse of a knife edge ridge or a circuitous route from the Central Summit Ridge to reach it.
Q: How was the climbing?
A: The climbing was straightforward. The route to Camps 1 and 2 were on snow slopes that varied in angle. There were some steep sections near the top of both slopes or just below the Camps. The route to the Depot Camp followed the glacier and was sometimes on a sharp angle of loose rock or scree. We had to cross the glacier and a series of 20 to 30 foot ice spires or Penitentes. This was a little of a surprise and took 1.5 hours the first time. We had a few people slip into the icy cold waters but no serious damage was done. The climb to Camp 3 on the Central Summit Ridge was on a steep snow slope that had avalanche danger. No one even tried it in 2007. From C3 you follow a ridge to the Central Summit.
Q: What kind of weather conditions did you have?
A: We climbed in late September and early October after the annual monsoon season has ended. So generally it was clear but colder than in the spring.We had significant more snow than in previous years and thus stopped all the summit bids from all teams. The winds were strong from time to time and thus cold.
Q: What kind of gear did you use?
A: I have used the same gear for many years now - lot's of layers and down. It was critical to protect my toes, fingers and face since these were most susceptible to frost bite. I have a gear page for reference. I am very pleased with all my gear but have a few standouts items. I note these on my gear page.
Q: Anything new - this time?
A: I switched from a capiline base layer to merino wool. I have found it to wick faster and stay warmer than capiline. It worked great. Shisha Pangma Facts
Q: Exactly where is Shisha Pangma?
A: In south central Tibet a few miles from the Nepalese boarder and about 75 miles east of Mt. Everest. The nearest airports are Lhasa and Kathmandu. It is the 14th highest mountain on Earth and the lowest 8000m mountain. It is unique since it is the only 8000m mountain 100% located in Tibet and not on a boarder. Similar to Everest's north side, there is a road that goes to the base camp sometimes call DC or Driver's Camp. But after that it is all on foot and Yak.
Q: What does Shisha Pangma mean?
A: It is a Tibetan name meaning “crest above the grassy plain". The Chinese call it Xixabangma which is translated to mean "bad weather" or "severe climate". Images
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8000m Peaks
