Cornucopia is a fun 3 pitch climb that features a nice variety of climbing styles. It is located on the east end of the south buttress. The first pitch offers a big athletic flake to lieback while the next 2 pitches offer sustained thin slab climbing.

First ascent by Don Brooks and Chris Syrjala in 1980.

Getting There

Approach to the south buttress area as per the main page. The first pitch starts at the big left facing flake system at the 2nd section you hit from the trail.

Route Description

Pitch #1 - 5.5 - Lieback up the big athletic left facing flake system using large cams to protect. Belay at the chains on top of the flake. Feels hard for the grade. 125 feet

Pitch #2 - 5.10a (5.6R) - Traverse to the right end of the ledge then perform a series of sustained thin friction moves (10a) protected by a bolt. Above this climb the slighly easier slab passing a bolt and going over the overlap. Supplement bolts with cams as needed. Climb straight up the slab getting a small cam in the dihedral before launching up and to the left for the last 40 feet of completely unprotected 5.6 knob climbing. 90 feet

Pitch #3 - 5.10a - Climb straight up the steeper slab clipping 7 bolts as you go. There is also a spot for a small cam placement near the top at the overlap. Going is sustained friction and small knobs in the 5.8 to 5.10a range. 150 feet

Down - 3 double rope rappels off the route's belay stations will get you to the ground.

Essential Gear

1 set of cams to 4"
7 draws
2 50 or 60 meter ropes

External Links

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