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Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
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Stone Cold Moderate (5.7) 

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 39.73740°N / 105.31977°W

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: jfox

Created/Edited: Nov 8, 2007 / Nov 9, 2007

Object ID: 354733

Hits: 398 

Page Score: 87.88% - 6 Votes 

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Overview

 
View looking east

One of the easier albeit fun routes located within the high walls of Clear Creek Canyon Colorado near the town of Golden. This route resides at the "Highwire Crag" climbing area of the canyon on the SE side of tunnel #2.

Perched high above Clear Creek and south of Hwy. 6, this climb recieves sun early in the summer and provides one with a nice climb to warm up on for the harder stuff to the north or for begining leaders to practice their craft. The route climbs on gneiss that is ~2 billion years old and is of excellent quality and very hard.

Getting There

Head west from Golden on U.S. Hwy 6 towards Idaho Springs to the pull out on the south side of the highway just before tunnel #2. A car was crushed here last year due to rockfall so watch out!

Hike down the highway west towards the tunnel over the bridge and exit left and climb a faint trail up to the base of the Highwire crag. Keep walking south until you see a big dihedral left of a notch in the cliff side.

T2

E2W map1

E2W map2

Route Description

1 pitch, 75 feet, 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor:

Begin the route by grabbing high on a huge bulge that forms a high roof and pull yourself up onto a ledge. This is like a hard boulder problem as there is no place to put protection below it. The first of 7 bolts lie above this crux.

Continue up a great dihedral clipping the remaining bolts or place your own gear in the excellent crack at the back of the dihedral. You can either face climb (5.7) by the bolts, or cheat and stem the dihedral which I felt was ~5.5 or something like that.

As stated, before, if you can get off the ground (crux) the rest of the climb is fun and a bit easier!

Dan on SCM

Essential Gear

  • 60 m rope

  • 7 draws

  • Anchor building draws

  • Rock shoes

  • Small cams/stoppers (if you want to place gear)
  • External Links

    Stone Cold on MP.com

    Images




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