While this is an involved description, route finding is not exactly difficult on this route. Given that, route finding skills are highly recommended. Executing this route with someone who has done it previously is a good idea and will result in an expedient day. Expect Class 3 and 4 options to present themselves both above and below timberline, and always expect loose rock throughout the route described. Expect considerable exposure in several places on this route as well as when climbing the Great Break. In the Edwards Guide to Glacier, this route is referred to as the Snow Moon Basin route.

This loop route can be done in reverse, which was actually the preferred route at one time until the Snow Moon Basin route was developed. Both routes involve a challenging bushwhack, but the Snow Moon Basin approach to the Great Break is the lesser of the two evils.

The first ascent of this route was by John Mauff, Keith Hollister and Alice, Jane and Gordon Edwards in 1968.

Typical terrain early in the route

In the photo below, we see in the incredible view from Mount Siyeh the northeast ridge of Allen Mountain, just above turqoise colored Cracker Lake, 4,000 feet below. The Great Break Route follows this ridge to the summit, just out of view on the left side of the photo. The route follows the lower angled ridge to the steep part, then climbs the Great Break crux to reassume the ridge above the steep part. This fantastic picture was shot by SP member gjagiels.

Allen Mountain Route from Mount Siyeh - 4,000 feet down to Cracker Lake!

Getting There

Allen Mountain is located in the Many Glacier area of Glacier National Park. Access is through the Many Glacier Entrance on the east side of the park, west of Babb. From the west, either drive through the park on Going-to-the-Sun-Road over Logan Pass to the town of Saint Mary, or around the park's southern boundary on U.S. Highway 2. Highway 2 continues to East Glacier Park, where you can take the winding Highway 49 (with incredible views), or continue on Highway 2 to Browning, at which point you'll pick up Highway 89. Both options lead back to Saint Mary, the main east entrance to the Park. Head north from Saint Mary to Baab on Highway 89. Babb can also be reached from Canada via Hwy 89 or 17 (Canadian Highways 2 and 6, respectively). At Baab intersection, head west toward the Many Glacier entrance of the Park. Beyond Lake Sherburne, a left turn leads over a bridge spanning the Swiftcurrent Lake outlet to the spectacular Many Glacier hotel. Take a left turn as you approach the hotel to a large parking area situated on a hilltop just east of the hotel and park there.

All GNP roads are closed in winter, with the GTTS Road sometimes not opening until July (average opening is the second week of June). The road from Babb to Many Glacier opens earlier. Check the status of these roads before departing on your trip. Repeated, and sometimes lengthy road closures due to storms, avalanches, rock slides, are not uncommon.

Refer to the main Allen Mountain page for more details.

Route Description

ASCENT
From the parking lot, proceed south, locating and following a use trail that follows a rib of white rock toward the north buttress of Allen Mountain. Stay sharp for cairns along this section, as it will be easy to loose the route, making your ascent to timberline more difficult. The use trail will soon angle left, toward the east, descending and climbing in and out of gullies. Thick brush will be present and bushwhacking is required, even though your foot path will be well defined.

The path soon heads south and starts a brutally steep climb up the buttress toward timberline. You may have your doubts you are on the right route. As long as your foot path is well worn, you�re on the right route. Options will be evident though, and as long as you�re headed south and upslope, you�ll do alright. Expect Class 3 scrambling up rock and roots through this heavy growth.

Once you break out of the timber, locate the most worn use trail and follow it as it winds its way up the gray, loose talus. Avoid the temptation to angle to the left right away. Go as high as you can and then follow the route, likely followed by the wildlife in the area, due east as it contours around the buttress. This tiny footpath will cross a number of gullies and exposure will be considerable. It will pass through patches of trees and occasionally climb to a higher altitude as it flirts with timberline. Occasional scrambling will be required, some in the Class 3 range.

Schwab Falls

Falling Leaf Lake

The route rounds the buttress on the east side and soon leaves timberline for good. You�ll see beautiful Schwab Falls to your left as you proceed southwest up the Allen Creek drainage. Stay to the right of the creek, and just below the mouth of Falling Leaf Lake, find a spot to cross the stream. Just above the drainage are some large slabs that make for a nice spot to take a break.

Northeast Ridge

From the east side of Falling Leaf Lake, execute a contouring ascent directly south up easy tundra slopes, aiming directly for the left side of the dark colored buttress you see on the skyline. The summit you see is not the summit of Allen Mountain, but the end of the summit ridge. As you draw closer, look for a dark colored crack in the left side of the cliff. This weakness in the impressive cliff wall is your ticket to the top of the mountain. Once on the gentle ridge top, continue south to where the guarding cliffs of the buttress rise in earnest and take another break at approximately 8,600 feet. Your serious climbing is about to begin.

Scrambling to the Great Break, directly above

Angle directly west on ledges for about 100 feet, to a spot where you are directly below the crack in the cliff. This crack is known as the Great Break. Climb up rubble covered ledges, following a shallow crack. You will be ascending rounded ledges covered in fine debris, and the climbing (Class 3 or 4) is exposed through this stretch. Watch your step and check holds.

Sandy, sloped ledge

Class 3 Climbing

After roughly 150 feet of climbing, angle sharply left on a wide, sloped sandy ledge which takes you around the ridge crest for some Class 3 scrambling. Generally, as you first ascend the ridge, go to the left to find a number of weaknesses that can be scaled over Class 3 terrain, although a number of these stretches are 40 to 50 feet of vertical climbing. You reach another ledge upon which you angle right to channel you back west across the cliff face to the base of the Great Break.

Class 2 scrambling

Great Break

You can enter and climb in the crack (Class 3 but sometimes cramped), or climb along side it (exposed Class 4). Inside the crack, the terrain is fairly solid, but either way, be certain of all holds and traction before committing, as a fall here would likely be fatal. Climbing in the crack can be cramped and may force you out onto exposed terrain in spots, but the crack can be easily regained. The crack angles slightly to the right in spots and offers a number of cozy resting coves, but for the most part, it is a vertical climb. The climb up the crack goes for another 200 feet.

Ridge crest

Once out of the crack, the climbing does not end. Ascend the northeast ridge. Route choices are many, and depending on your choices, the difficulty will vary as well. If you get into anything Class 4 or above, you�re not on the route. Route finding skills are essential in making your way up this fun and exciting ridge line. Several benches higher up must be assaulted directly while on the ridge crest, but these Class 3 portions are fun and not difficult.

Summit Ridge

Once the Class 3 climbing ends, you�re at the east end of the summit ridge. A short march up fine talus brings the rounded summit into view. March west along the ridge top to the summit dome and try not to get too emotional about the staggering view surrounding you.

Descent Route

DESCENT
Descending the way you came is an option, if you feel conditions and capability of your group warrant a down climb of the Great Break. However, another option detailed here makes for a nice loop trip and less mileage. However, the price is lots of scree and another entangled bushwhack (which you'd have either way).

Descent Route

Hike due east back along the summit ridge. Just before the end of the ridge, look to your left, due northwest, down the yellow and brown scree slopes. Below the brown scree, the terrain turns red to the right of a gully. Imagine a straight line of descent through this terrain, just to the right of the gully directly toward Lake Josephine. Try to follow this course as you descend, utilizing the loose scree for �scree skiing� whenever you can. Be wary of areas of hardpan sprinkled in scree, making for difficult footing. The descent is not difficult (Class 2) and you should lose altitude quickly.

Top of Red Gully

As you enter the red scree and talus, a gully will be on your left. If the gully is dry (or a trickle of water is present), it can be safely descended, dropping over ledges of solid red rock (Class 3 and 4). The gully empties out over a cliff band, and route finding is necessary to exit the gully (Class 4) onto the slopes below the cliff band. Another option is to stay to the right of the gully on slopes covered in fine talus and krumholz and contour northward and find a break in the cliffs through which you can descend (Class 3).

Descent Route Below Cliff Band

Either way, once below the cliffs, hike north and contour the slope, avoiding the temptation to descend. A goat trail or foot path may be discovered through here. Continue to contour north, bashing through krumholz and passing through a minor gully. You will eventually arrive at a major avalanche gully. You'll know it when you arrive. Previous foot travel may be evident. Descend loose dirt to enter this gully and follow it northwest directly down the slope. You�ll be channeled into the gully bottom, where direct down climbs of pour-offs will be required. Some of these are tricky Class 3, but most of them are fun, involving a variety of handholds involving both root and rock.

It's a Jungle Down There!

The gully funnels you into the thick, entangling brush similar to what you bushwhacked in the morning. A number of pour-offs must still be negotiated, and soon the gully fades and any number of route choices present themselves. As long as you�re headed downhill, you�ll be fine. You eventually arrive at a wide trail, often used by horses. Hang a right and follow the trail north toward the Many Glacier Hotel. Staying to your right at an intersection will take you back to the parking area. Once on the trail, it's roughly a mile back to the lot.

Essential Gear

Your hiking boots must have very good tread to execute this route safely.

Standard dayhike gear will do, but plan on any type of weather. A map, GPS and compass are highly recommended. Bring extra water. With exception of the crossing below Falling Leaf and Snow Moon Lakes, count on no access to water along this route. Water in the red gully on the descent is possible, but don�t count on it. A hat, preferably wide-brimmed, is recommended, and insect repellent and sunscreen are a must.

Bear spray and bells are recommended, and be prepared to make routine noise to alert wildlife of your impending approach throughout the course of the route.

External Links

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