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| E.O. Lieback (5.5)   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Wyoming, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 41.16600°N / 105.375°W Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Time Required: Less than two hours Rock Difficulty: 5.5 (YDS) Number of Pitches: 1
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| Page By: earthquakes Created/Edited: Nov 16, 2007 / Dec 26, 2007 Object ID: 357270 Hits: 613 Loading... Page Score: 88.04% - 7 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
Vedauwoo. The name conjures up images of cheese-grater like rock, blank slabs that reach into the clouds and horrid off-widths that chew up and spit out intrepid climbers into contorted hamburger at their base. Just looking at the guide book for the area is enough to scare off most people. It seemed like every climber photographed in the guide was in some state of contorted agony. The expressions on their faces were anything but pleasant. Are all routes at the “Woo” like this? For the most part no, and lucky for you, E.O. Lieback is a nice aesthetic route albeit a short one. This is a great route for beginning leaders and perfect for those wanting to practice or perfect their liebacking skills.
Vedauwoo is an amazing place. A large granitic pile of rocks located in SW Wyoming. The pluton rises straight up out of the flat plains resembling some ancient monolith and shares this striking characteristic with Uluru in Australia. This route resides on one of the bigger monoliths in the park, Turtle Rock, and climbs a feature on the southeast side called the Fall Wall.
Getting ThereGet on Interstate 80 and take the Vedauwoo exit ~10 miles east of Laramie Wyoming. Take the park road to the entrance station and turn in (left) here, pay your day use fee of $5 and head down the same road until it dead ends into a parking area after ~1 mile. Hike up and to the right (east) and then bear back left towards Walt’s Wall which is directly in front of you. Scramble up a faint climbers trail over many huge boulders. You’ll be climbing before you climb! Head towards the SE around a large corner to your right and climb steep talus to the base of Fall Wall. This is a difficult approach! Be on the lookout for a rock called the Clam Shell, which resembles a clam shell with vertically oriented smooth grooves. The climbs are above this.
Route DescriptionOne pitch, ~50’ to a two chain anchor.
Begin by climbing up a weak crack/flake near the base in order to get near the main right facing corner/crack system. Once at the main feature, begin liebacking up the route and place gear as necessary. It’s best to work your left foot into the crack and then smear your right foot on the steep blank slab on the right. Gear placement is somewhat awkward as you either have to do it “blind” or you’ll have to bend over completely at the waist and look into the crack which is at your feet! Continue on like this to the top and clip the anchors. From here you can lower back down, rap or continue on in several directions to turn the route into a multi pitch 5.8 route by traversing left or right out from under the massive roof. We did not do this as we were losing daylight fast.
Essential GearMedium to small cams <#2 Camalots, or medium to large stoppers best.
50 m rope is sufficient if only doing the first pitch.
Typical trad climbing safety gear.
External LinksMP.com's page for E.O. Lieback
Vedauwoo's own web page! Images
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