There is some good climbing on the North side of the Sphinx; you just have to wait for the right season. At this altitude and latitude ice forms early, and in the case of the Lowe route, reliably. Get there before any significant snow accumulates on the approach traverse. Winter Dance by Joe Josephson gives an excellent description of the routes on this face and other options in the area.

Getting There

Driving directions are the same as for the summer route. Turn off 287 onto Bear Creek Rd. in Cameron. Follow that road to the trailhead, bearing left whenever in doubt. The trail goes straight out of the parking lot and tracks along Bear Creek, crossing the stream several times. It branches in a large meadow after leaving the streamside. The left branch takes you up to the Helmet/Sphinx col. From the col, you can see the Northwest shoulder of the mountain rising directly in front of you in a series of rock bands. Head up the shoulder and aim for the ledge system just below the highest visible rock band. You will traverse across the North face at the level of this ledge, going slightly higher or lower to avoid any difficulties. It isn't too awful scarey, but if you fall, you die. Fatalities have occurred on these slopes due to avalanche. The Lowe route is the farthest visible line through the rock bands, easily recognisable by the steep pillar that forms the first pitch right off the traverse ledge.

Route Description

A 30-35m WI5 pillar leads to a mellow snow and ice slope through a constriction to the base of the 2nd pitch. Pitch two goes up for most of a ropelength in several steps of WI3+/4. Above is about 150 m of rolling ice and snow leading to the summit ridge. The summit is marked by a cairn several hundred easy feet of climbing straight above the top of the route. The descent gully lies climber's right of the topout. It takes you down to a rightward traverse back onto the Northwest shoulder where you started.

Essential Gear

Ice screws to accomodate your comfort level. Tricams through blue and cams if you so desire. The conglomerate is not too bad and there are a couple of mixed routes before you get to the Lowe Route. You can find a use for the rock gear if you carry it up with the intention of climbing the mixed stuff but find it out of shape.
Thanks to Chad Anderson for the photos and the hammerhead mentality it takes to drive from Oregon for a day of climbing in the Rockies.

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