The Sorcerer may be the best WI-5 route in the Canadian Rockies. As described in Joe Josephson's guide, it is stunning ("if you are to do just one route in the Ghost, the Sorcerer would be it"). The route spills down the back of a huge amphitheater/cirque that is over 200m high. The uppermost dead vertical wall that forms the top two pitches is about 100m high, and the lower two approach pitches getting up to the final column have a very alpine feel. This is a great adventure route. Avalanche hazard is minimal, but expect plenty of spindrift on windy days if it has recently snowed.
The route is located in a tributary drainage to Johnson Creek to the north of the main Ghost River and south of Waiparous Creek. It is within the next drainage/cirque to the south of Hydrophobia, and is sometimes climbed the same day as that route ("the Hydro/Sorcerer link-up").

Getting There

The climb can be approached from either the North Ghost, or from the Waiparous via the Hydrophobia approach. The walking time from the North Ghost is about 2 hours, whereas from the Hydro parking area is reputedly only about an hour. However, given the longer driving time in to the Hydrophobia parking area (from Cochrane, 2 hrs. minimum in good conditions versus about 1.5 hours to the N. Ghost parking area), more people seem to approach the Sorcerer via the North Ghost. Also, driving in along the final section of the Hydro approach is usually considerably more difficult than the N. Ghost drive. Detailed directions to the Sorceror, via the Hydrophobia approach, are at this link: hydro approach beta.
The North Ghost driving approach is described in J. Josephson's Waterfall Ice guidebook, and on the main Summitpost North Ghost page. It is also worthwhile to check web postings just prior to going in to check on current approach issues; people often post driving conditions on the Will Gadd and live-the-vision websites (see external links below).
From the North Ghost parking area, cross the river and start hiking along a road that heads northeastward, up a hill and into the saddle between Black Rock Mountain on the east (right) and a tall rock wall on the west (to the left). It is also possible to drive across the river with the proper vehicle, and park on the other side. Once on this road/trail, continue northward past the north end of the first Johnson Lake, then head northwestward up the slope and into the trees, heading up over a ridge and down into the drainage coming from the Sorcerer. You'll see the route at this point; hopefully you won't shit in your pants.

heading up the last pitch

Route Description

Set up at the top of the snow slope at the base of the ice. Climb one long pitch, initially up a steep slab (~70 degrees) to a lower angled ledgey area, and continue up a narrow near vertical pillar to a bolted belay. This pitch can be thin.
The following pitch continues up snow and easy ice (WI-2), up to ~60 degrees, to a sheltered cave-like belay on the right. This is at the base of the upper, vertical two-pitch waterfall.

a very alpine feel on the 2nd pitch

The initial portion of the 3rd pitch can be cruxy (WI-5), but relents after about 30 feet, to WI-3/4, and heads up to another bolted, sheltered belay on the right at the base of the last pitch.

finishing 3rd pitch through spindrift

starting up 3rd pitch

Traverse out left and onto the extremely exposed final column. Continue on up to the top on mostly vertical, occasionally overhanging and spectacular climbing, for a full length pitch of sustained WI-5.

heading onto the final column

poised for another spindrift avalanche

Rap the route off of V-threads at the top, then follow the line of fixed anchors back down to the bottom.

endless spindrift avalanches on the last pitch

Essential Gear

screws
60m ropes

External Links

The best web places to get current conditions for ice routes in the Rockies are:
WILL GADD'S ICE PAGES and LIVE-THE-VISION.COM
Both of these sites get alot of postings with current route info, and are good places to go for recent road approach conditions.

Accomodations

Japanese sushi chefs preparing to rap the Sorcerer

Cochrane is the closest option with numerous motels and restaurants. Canmore/Banff require another half hour or so approach time but are more fun to hang out. It's about a 1.5 hour drive from Cochrane to the North Ghost parking area; two hours from Cochrane to the Hydrophobia parking area in good driving conditions.

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