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Melty Way
Route
Melty Way 

Page Type: Route

Location: North America

Lat/Lon: 39.29367°N / 111.27108°W

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: WI4

Number of Pitches: 2

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: d_shorb

Created/Edited: Dec 11, 2007 / Feb 29, 2008

Object ID: 364500

Hits: 971 

Page Score: 87.06% - 4 Votes 

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Overview

 
 
Another roadside gem, this 200 ft. route is in Joes Valley proper. With superb and solid WI4 climbing throughout its steps, its main attraction is the 40 foot central column on the first pitch. The upper steps offer fun, steep (& short) WI4 curtains of between 5 and 20 feet tall. Though it can be very fat, this route may be one of the first to melt due to its west facing PM exposure.

Getting There

 
The upper steps
Drive all the way to the Joes Valley Resrvior, and it can be easily spotted on the roadside cliff, perhaps a 1/4 of a mile or so beyond the damn. There is a sizeable pullout to park your car right across the street from the climb, and the approach is walk of about 80 feet up to the first short curtain.


Route Description

A 12 foot curtain and some walking lead to the main formation of about 45 feet. Often a narrow column with sustained climbing, this section leads to upper steps of more sustained climbing, broken by steps.

Descent: rap from trees at the top, then try to walk down to the first major step, rapping off a small tree to the bottom (a 60 gets you below the 12 foot initial step).

Dave Black's book describes this as WI4-5, though giving a 5 may refer to abnormally lean conditions, because the height of each section is not much more than 40 feet

Essential Gear

A 60m rope for the descent will allow you to rap from the smal tree just above the major column.

Ususal ice gear, and with 1-2 stubbies comming in handy.
See the JoesValley main page for guide book information.

Images




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