While climbing around halfway up the route, I asked the group what they felt was a fitting name for the route. Dustin came up with naming this route in honor of Dustin and Bert's friend, Steve Holtgrefe, who passed away from Cardiac Arrest, during a game of airsoft.

Rest in Peace, Steve.

Steve Holtgrefe August 11, 1964 - December 8, 2007

This route was climbed back in the day by Rick and his buddies, and they gave it the name "Easy Street".

Overview

Holtgrefe Ridge is approximately a 1.25 mile long, 1,000 meter high (elevation gain) ridge running from the Northeast corner of Mt Harwood down into Stockton Flat. This ridge can be seen rising from the Stockton Flat area from the normal route up Baldy, Devils Backbone.

Overview Collage, click for semi-Hi-Res.

This route is best climbed in Winter or early Spring, when there is sufficient snow coverage, and low temp's. Otherwise, this would turn from an enjoyable alpine climb into a scree slog.

Holtgrefe Flat

There are several flat areas along the route, the largest of which we have named Holtgrefe Flat. This area is large enough to hold around 30 campers, with plenty of room to spare. This flat also offers a view of the remaining ridge, looking to the Southwest.

Once past Holtgrefe Flat, the ridge rises to the summit ridge of Harwood. There are very few options beyond this flat for comfortable bivy or camp sites, unless you have a small footprint (bivy bag, tarp, etc).

Getting There

From the Stockton Flat page:

"While there are multiple methods of entry into this area, the most obvious and easiest way is via Sierra Avenue.

From south of Cajon Pass, take the 15 freeway north, exit Sierra. Sierra has multiple names on maps, such as Lytle Creek Road, Stockton Flat Road, Baldy Road, etc. The number for this road is 3N06. Take 3N06 up through the canyon (northwest).

Stockton Flat is the prominent flat area reached just before 3N06 makes a left turn (heading south) and ascends the mountain to Baldy Notch. There is a knocked-down white gate at this point. You know you've gone too far if you cannot see the riverbed on your right side."

There is a gate around 6,100ft, where the road winds to the South/left towards Baldy Notch (7,802ft). At the bend in this road is where you want to start the approach. Google Earth gives the coordinates to the approach start as 34�17'47.14"N 117�36'2.33"W.

Route Description

From the approach start, walk approximately .75 miles up the river valley to the base of the ridge. Multiple ridges end in this valley, so be sure to jump on the right one.

Holtgrefe Ridge in Google Earth

The approach takes you up the large river/wash bed that drains Mt Harwood, Mt Baldy, and Dawson Peak.

The route starts at the base of the ridge, and quickly climbs up and eventually evens out. Route continues up ridge to small flat with fire ring (rockpile). Route passes flat, heads up and eventually reaches Holtgrefe Flat, which is a large flat with tons of space and, at least during our ascent, offered excellent shelter from wind.

From Holtgrefe Flat, one can see the remainder of the route stretching up to the top of Harwood. Eventually, one runs into the first step, which is an easy class 3 section that is fun with crampons on.

Looking at the First Step

Looking down from the First Step

Fritz on the First Step

The First Step is the first real rocky section of the ridge, and there is much rock beyond this that can aid or hinder your climb, depending on snow conditions. After passing the first step, you come into contact with the Second Step, which can be climbed for a fun class 4 section, or bypassed on the right (North side), which is class 2.

After the Second Step, the route eventually narrows down and soon passes through Lodgepole Pine, showing the transition to the higher section of the route. From here there is much traditional mixed climbing, that is, lots of frozen scree and some rock solid or large enough to safely drytool on without skating or crumbling.

Moving up to top out

Now, as the winds pick up and you can see the summit ridge, you may come across some well-placed alpine ice to help speed your ascent...

Almost there

And you're done.

Bert, Fritz, and Dustin, topped out

If you wish to continue to the true summit of Mt Harwood, it is a short distance West, as you are on the furthest East portion of Harwood's summit plateau. The traverse to the true summit can take around 10-20 minutes.

Author's Note: I am sorry if having all images sized medium, and centered in the page causes problems. I cannot get things to cooperate otherwise.

Essential Gear

If you choose to do this as a winter route as we did, a single traditional mountaineering ice axe and crampons are the only "special" equipment required.

Looking down-route from near the summit

If you choose to camp atop Harwood, bring something extremely windproof to sleep in, as the winds here are incredibly strong, and will easily destroy a tent without a problem. I would discourage anyone from trying to pitch a tent atop this peak for that reason.

Best bet if camping in the area post-climb is to head to the saddle between Baldy and Harwood, as there are several areas that offer good low ground that is sheltered from as much wind as possible. Bring a good thick pad to insulate your body from the scree and snow/ice.

In winter, a snow shovel is worth the extra weight.

External Links

Looking back at the route from further west on Harwood

Images



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