One pitch lines form here in mid-winter providing quick access, good climbing, are frequently busy when formed up. Located at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon, 3 distinct climbs make up this somewhat elusive set of fun routes: Hanging Pillar (5-6), Scruffy Band (3-4), and Scruffy Right (4).

These climbs can be done all in the same day, and are great to combine with The Great White Icicle

Getting There

See Little Cottonwood's (LCC) main page, and Dave Black's book Ice Climbing Utah for better details.

From the LCC park and ride, walk across the highway, and head into the LCCriver trail parking lot, just passed the huge Info sign. Once in the trailhead parking area. Look for the Quarry Trailhead sign and stairs. Head down the stairs, and left. On your right you should see a "If rocks could talk" interpretive sign. This marks where you should head right and into the creekbed (usually dry). Once in the creekbed look/head left, upstream a bit, and look for a scrambling trail on the southern bank. This trail heads up and left to the base of the routes through some scrub oak.

Route Description

Start with a look at the center route, Scruffy Band (WI3-4), and determine what you'd like to do.

Scruffy Band: 200ft. WI3 ramp to a large snow ledge, with a possible 15 foot column often done as a short second pitch.

Scruffy Right: 200ft. WI4 face.

Hanging Pillar: 110ft. WI3 ramp up left to a pillar (there's variations like Razzleberry M8-9, a bolted mixed line, etc.)

DESCENTS:
All descents are best done as a double rope rap off of the tree,just left of the top of Scruffy Band (center)

Essential Gear

Stubbies, double ropes, and screamers probably help on this one. Rock gear can also be placed duing certain times of the year.

External links

Ice climbing Utah reports

National Weather Service page for the mouth of LCC

Images