Moratorium is rated WI4, but offers opportunities for much harder climbing on the 2nd pitch. You should be quite solid at the grade to do this climb. The belay is consistently exposed to ice fall and the ice is brittle since it never sees the sun, so the leader must have a controlled,careful technique. The first pitch is often thin and run out as well-count yourself lucky if you get a good stubby in the first 50 ft.. Both pitches are long. No matter how hard you climb, completing Moratorium will leave you with a sense of accomplishment, if not relief.

Getting There

Drive out the South Fork road until just past the Ishawooa Mesa trailhead. Turn onto a sharp left branch that takes you steeply downhill and over the river in about 100 meters. Continue out this road until you see th Kestrel Ranch's mailbox on your right. At this point, stop and turn your head all the way to the left. You will see a small side road. Park at the bottom of the road, or if you have high clearance, drive up it to the top of the hill. Standing at the crest of the road, you will see a large hill in front of you. Work your way over this, bearing left. Over the top of the first hill is a short flat section, followed by another set of hills. Skirt the largest of these closely to the right and you will come out onto a larger plain with the tree covered ridge directly in front of you. Directly in front of you, you will see a steep climb, likely not touching down. This is Joy After Pain. Hidden in the deeper drainage to the left, is Moratorium. Work uphill to the right of the drainage until you are just below the first major cliff band. Traverse left into the drainage here. This can be a little dicey. When you round the corner coming into the streambed, the climb comes into view for the first time during the approach; that should keep you going.

Route Description

Rope up in the slot at the base of the climb. Make your way up the thin, low-angle first pitch (WI3,R). Belay at the base of the first steep tier above. Usually it's best to set up as far left as you can. The belay is frequently semi-hanging unless you pause to cut a stance. Climb the two steeper steps above in 55m, bearing left (Camino de Pollo variation) or right depending on how hard you want to make it. There is a tree belay a ways back from the top out. You can get there with a 70m rope. Otherwise, set up closer to the lip. Rap from the tree, then from an Abalakov. Two 60m ropes get you to the ground in two raps without a whole lot to spare.

Essential Gear

Two ropes, ice screws, equipment to make V-threads.

External Links

Highly recommended to get Winter Dance, check Aaron Mulkey's website or stop by Core Mtn. Sports if you are going to Cody.