A good introduction to the longer routes in the South Fork. The approach is not too bad. The climbing is consistent, with the hardest pitches at the end. The descent is fairly straightforward and there is a reasonable walk-off if the ice starts to disintegrate in the late afternoon. And that is the only real problem encountered on this climb. It is a great place to be on a clear, cold day as it gets sun from mid-morning onward. But don't underestimate the effect of all that comforting warmth on the ice and the basin feeding it. I've rappelled past a jet of water shooting from the center of one of the pillars farther than I could reach laid out horizontal from the ice.

Getting There

Drive out the South Fork road. Pass the Ishawooa Mesa trailhead. Go over a bridge. At 3.25 miles past the trailhead parking lot, look for a small cabin on your left very close to the road, with a hedge. The next streambed on your right marks the Broken Hearts drainage. It is the last major drainage before Deer Creek. Park on the East (near) side of the streambed to start the approach. Stay to the right of the streambed until you get to the edge of the trees. There you can drop into the frozen watercourse and follow it the rest of the way to the base of the climb

Route Description

The first two pitches can be combined into one with a 60m rope (WI3). Solo past a short step to the base of the third pitch.

This pillar is subject to intense sun, and is often thin and hard to protect (WI4). A tree on the wall of the gully to the climber's right serves as a rappel anchor. Take note of it, but don't climb up there to belay unless you have to. Solo up ice steps to the next pitch.

40m of WI3 sets you up for a long ramble up numerous ice steps up to 7m high to get to the 5th pitch amphitheater.

This bowl contains My Only Valentine (5th pitch) on the right, and Carotid Artery, likely not touching, on the left.

Above is the 6th pitch, which will be visible from the top of the 5th.

If it is in, this pillar is long, with a pile of mushroomed ice in the lower half and steep, technical ice up top. Rarely, a 7th pitch forms in the next bowl a short walk above. This will be even more difficult and sustained than the 6th pitch, but don't worry too much - it probably won't be there. Rap the route if at all possible. The walk off to the descending climber's right just below the 5th pitch amphitheater is not the typical Cody horror show, but it isn't marked either. The full pitches and the longer steps all have fixed anchors and will inevitably be faster. Rap the last pitch in two 30m stages, first from the slung boulder at the top, then from an Abalakov at the base of the upper step. Despite what it looks like, the ropes will probably get stuck if you do it as one full-length rappel.

Essential Gear

Two 60m ropes, ice screws, equipment to make V-threads.

External Links

Get Winter Dance, check out conditions at colfear.com or by stopping by Core Mtn. Sports when you get into town.

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