This is a more technically-difficult route, ascending Baden Powell's Northeast Face. The lower sections are easiest, with soft snow and avalanche debris. The further up you climb, the more committing it gets, with excellent alpine ice, and fewer rest stops, often requiring one to chop out belay ledge/stances in order to take a longer break.

Fritz moving up

TACO'S NOTES:
-Coordinates denote approximate base/start of route
-Low-angle ice climb, once you get above the "Oak line" (lower altitude); obviously condition dependant. Fantastic hard snow and alpine ice up to about 55 degrees.
-Rated Class 4 due to exposure on mixed sections. Level of traditional mixed climbing on this route is low (IE not M1 or other in the M-scale). Mostly loose scree atop large, exfoliating rock with a little ice and munge to bond it all together so wonderfully. I know ratings are always subjective and they can get overly personal, so bear with me.
-640 Meters (vertical distance, straight up and down, not under-foot), C4 (Class 4), AI2 Alpine ice up to around 55 degrees (Steep but great with French Technique; was made for this).

Getting There

Reaching Baden Powell

Easiest thing to remember: 15-138-2-End. Take the 15 NORTH to the 138. Take the 138 WEST to the 2 (Angeles Crest Highway, AHC, ACH2, SR2, etc), and make a LEFT heading WEST onto this road. This road goes through Wrightwood, past Mountain High, etc. This route dead ends at the parking lot for this route, at Vincent Flat. Assuming they fix ACH before I fix the page, Vincent Gap is the place to be.

Or, check the Baden-Powell page. :-)

Reaching the Base of the Route
Take the Bighorn Mine Trail east, heading down into the canyon. This trail hangs onto the side of Baden Powell, and is large enough to drive a vehicle on. You cannot miss the start of the route (see next section)...

Route Description

Route begins off Bighorn Mine Trail. You cannot miss this system of couloirs unless you choose to go in bad weather (not the best of ideas).

Look for this!

Focus on the left of the two main couloirs. The right couloir is very mixed and delicate, and our move on the route beta image shows how we moved off into the left couloir in order to avoid this delicate, what I call "San Gabriel Mixed" climbing. If you enjoy mixed climbing with little drytooling on rock that is often in desperate need of cleaning (covered in loose bits), have at it.

Our route. Green denotes ascent, red is descent down easy gully

Moving up the left couloir from the start (since you are smarter than us), take this to the top. It is a simple route to follow, and assuming conditions are good (climbed 20080113), it's fun and solid. There are several couloirs that lead off when this main left couloir opens up, giving the climber or team multiple options to exit and either top out and head home, or head for the summit.

Fritz taking a break nearer the top

There is a prominent flat to the right/North of the end of the route (if you do not wish to summit), and this flat offers great shelter from the wind. There is plenty of space to bivy and have a huge party or otherwise take up lots of space.

Essential Gear

If you choose to protect this route...

-Your choice of ropes, probably best with a set of 70M's. Dry treated.
-1x picket per person, 24" is fine
-Belay devices of your choice, something nice and simple (probably not a Grigri or Eddy) that you can safely operate with gloves on.
-Harness
-If you take the right couloir (mixed), a simple alpine rock rack with chocks and nuts, sings and such as the rock can be quite crumbly... (best to avoid)

Otherwise...

-1x General Mountaineering Axe, with STEEL head and actual spike (not a hollow open shaft)
-1x pair steel crampons, as tight on your boots as possible (IE Grivel new-matic bindings)
-1x HELMET! This route isn't named Boulderdash for nothin'.
-Water, food, etc, for a day on the mountain.

Wear a helmet! Super ninja arm protectors would be handy as well. Rockfall can get "interesting".

We brought a 50M rope and equipment, in case we bit off more than we could chew. We nearly had to use it. In primo conditions, I believe it would'nt be necessary to carry any of that.

External Links

Images



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