Looking for a moderate ice climb in a spectacular alpine setting? If so, then Jewel Lake ice may be your answer. Residing at the base on the east side of Thatchtop Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park, this ice flow offers the advantage of moderate grade ice (conditions depending), a moderately short approach (2 miles), gorgeous alpine scenery (Glacier Gorge in Rocky Mountain National Park) and shelter from the wind. The wall is large and spread out enough to offer several parties access along its base. With thin smears near the middle-left and far-right side, some mixed climbing could be done here as well. This route is also mentioned in Bernard Gillett�s book �Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber�s Guide, High Peaks� and can be found on page 244, route C-5. Gillett credits the FA to Richard Rossiter, Ralph Baldwin and Tim Hogan back in 1977. Gillett also lists the climb as WI3 but we found conditions at 3-/2+ on the day we climbed it. Of course, ice is an ephemeral medium so conditions change month to month, year to year.

This route is also nice in that it resides close to the area �All Mixed Up� but is a lot lower on the mountain and thus an easier approach. Parties heading for the Black Lake Ice area would also pass this climb without ever knowing it. So if conditions farther down the gorge turn ugly, your trip and approach can be shortened by climbing here.

Getting There

On the Approach

From Estes Park, and the main entrance into Rocky Mountain National Park, turn onto the Bear Lake road and take it all the way to the Glacier Gorge trailhead. Follow the trail that is well signed towards Mills Lake. After crossing the second foot bridge, you should see a trail heading into the trees immediately to your right. This is the winter �shortcut� trail. Take it until it rejoins the main trail at the split to Glacier Gorge and Loch Vale. Take the Glacier Gorge trail towards Mills Lake. Once reaching Mills Lake, its easiest to don some snowshoes (preferably ones with lots of teeth like the MSR�s) and walk directly across the lake.

Mills Lake

In the dead of winter, the lake is usually frozen enough to walk on without worry, but test the ice first! After crossing Mills Lake, you�ll come to Jewel Lake. Cross it and at its southern end, turn west into the trees and head to the climb. You should find it without much trouble. The coordinates listed above are handheld GPS coordinates that I took while there. See the MAP that I made showing the standard and shortcut routes detailed.

Final Slope

Route Description

Topping Out

The wall is huge! Pick your line. I climbed the middle section which I found the best and steepest ice. The base of the climb, at least when I was there, is steep snow, so you�ll need to stamp out and cut a platform to stand on. Snowshoes help here too. Begin climbing high to a small snow shelf that cuts the wall horizontally less than half-way up. Above this the ice gets a bit steeper and more fun. Pull the bulge and look for sling webbing and/or cordalette at the base of most of the trees. Of course, always inspect these and bring your own just in case! The trees are big and mature, so the anchors are or can be bomber. Longer slings are needed to get around their trunks.

Right Side

The far left side of the flow Looks to be a bit easier, with not as steep ice but very thick and solid. It was really blue when we were there, while the rest of the ice was a dirty yellow. The middle of the wall accepted our longest screws with ease. The far right side of the wall was thin smear with bare rock that looked promising for easy to moderate (albeit short) mixed climbing.

Left Side

Essential Gear

A 60m rope will suffice

Crampons

Ice tools

Helmet

Eye protection

Snowshoes (for the approach)

Ice screws (10cm � 22cm)

Sling or tubular webbing for anchor building (20� lengths)

External Links

Eli Helmuth's Climbinglife page for Jewel Lake Ice

Mountain Projects Page for Overflow.

Images



[ View Gallery - 2 More Images ]