Ovisight is one of the best, and most difficult, routes on the "sun side" of the South Fork valley. It will test your legs as well as your forearms as the approach gains quite a bit of elevation and the walk from the access pitch to the first difficult pitch is a slog. This drainage accumulates quite a bit of snow. It is a miserable place to be after a big storm or wind event, and potentially hazardous in those circumstances as well. Evidence of significant avalanche is sometimes apparent on the final slope leading to the first hard pitch. Both the first two pitches get intense sun, so it is wise to glass them from the road before committing to the approach.

Getting There

Drive out the South fork road to about 2 miles past the end of the pavement. The drainage is visible before you cross a concrete bridge. Look for the prominent Legg creek pitch pouring out of a narrow slot at the head of the creek, with the three main pitches rising up to the left through the rock bands. If you cross the bridge, you have gone too far. If you pass the Broken Hearts drainage, you have gone much too far. If you pass Deer Creek, you are lost.

Route Description

Walk up the drainage, staying mostly in the creek bed. There is one 5m step to climb past right before the end. The creek pours out of a narrow gap in the headwall forming the first pitch of the Legg Creek climb which is used to access the upper drainage. This WI3 pitch is usually thin and unprotectable. The anchor is at a small alder at the top of the slot.

Walk up the creek, staying in the main drainage. Pass a left hand branch about half way up which leads to the alternate climb Who's Your Daddy. Just before the drainage takes a hard right, the first pitch of Ovisight itself becomes visible. This pillar is the crux. It can range from a 5+ sustained vertical column to a grade 6 pencil with overhanging ice at the top. Belay at a tree on the left.

Continue up the drainage to the 2nd pitch. This is longer and steeper (WI5) than it looks, but usually better protected than the first pitch, since it recieves less sun. Belay at a tree on the left. From the belay, traverse left through the trees for about 50m to the next drainage. The 3rd pitch will come into view as you round the corner.

The third pitch is a full 60m in three steps. It is not as sustained as the first two, but is hard and brittle as it sees little, if any, sun. If conditions are just right, it is also chadeliered and running with water, a true test of one's devotion to the sport. Luckily this state is rare. Descend the route.

Essential Gear

Two 60m ropes, screws, slings, Abalakov material. Stubbies are generally unnecesary save if you want to amuse yourself with a gear placement on the access pitch.

External Links

Winter Dance guidebook. Core Mtn. Sports. Coldfear website.