Overview
Located on Eldorado Canyon State Park's West Ridge, this route is a great one for beginner to intermediate trad leaders. Great crack climbing for 130' accepting all kinds of gear from tiny nuts to giant camalots.
Getting ThereSee the main page for Eldo in regards to getting into the park. Once inside, it is easiest to park near the large boulder and rock hop across the creek to the climbers trail and go up the ridge until you come to the climb you're interested in. Or, starting on the east side of the park, cross the foot bridge and then head west on the climbers trail (obvious) until you come to the west ridge and head up. All routes will be on your right as you ascend the hill/ridge.Route Description1 Pitch, 130 feet, 5.6 YDS
First off, you'll need to scramble up onto a ledge above the trail or you'll run out of rope. It is a short (5.4) scramble up to the ledge. From here, begin climbing a broken slab and go up to the beginning of the right facing corner. The route consists of crack climbing in a right facing corner and features several vertical to slightly overhanging buldges.
At the first one, you can get in some small gear (#4 stopper, #1 C3) to protect the move onto and over the first budge. Then the crack widens considerably and accepts C4's from #3 to #4. At this point you can jam your entire arm into the crack for leverage. Continue along the corner/crack system placing smaller gear, medium stoppers and C4's #1 & #2 etc. all while climbing up/over buldges. There are decent holds on top of each crux, not much on the face to your right and the crack gets thinner making foot work "interesting".
At the top, there is a platform with a tree. Above and to your left, but awkward to reach are two bolts with rap rings for an anchor. I discovered that belaying a second from here is very awkward as the anchor will be out over the climb, to your right and slightly high. If your follower were to fall, you'd probably be yanked out and off the belay stance. If I were to do it again, I'd sling the tree. Test it first however!!!
Descend by lowering or rapping from the anchors.Essential Gear60m rope, 70m if you're going to belay from the trail. Do NOT lower with a single 60m rope from the ground/trail!!!
Standard trad rack, small stoppers, C3 (#1), C4's up to #3 or #4
Images
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West Ridge
