The Unsaid (5.9)

Route

The Unsaid (5.9)

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 39.93092°N / 105.28735°W

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

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Page By: jfox

Created/Edited: Mar 11, 2008 / Mar 17, 2008

Object ID: 387449

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Page Score: 87.37% - 4 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Unsaid

Located on Eldorado Canyon State Park's West Ridge, this route is a great one for those who enjoy thin finger crack and steep face climbing.

Getting There

See the main page for Eldo in regards to getting into the park. Once inside, it is easiest to park near the large boulder and rock hop across the creek to the climbers trail and go up the ridge until you come to the climb you're interested in. Or, starting on the east side of the park, cross the foot bridge and then head west on the climbers trail (obvious) until you come to the west ridge and head up. All routes will be on your right as you ascend the hill/ridge.

Route Description

1 Pitch, 100 feet, 5.9 YDS

Begin from about the same spot as for Washington Irving, by belaying from the same ledge above the trail. A 60m rope is not enough to be lowered by unless you start atop the ledge.

Unsaid

Traverse right for a bit across low angled slabs until you are below the small roof. Climb an easy crack with good face holds and even a "chicken head" until you come to the thin finger crack. Smear on the face and edge upwards along this crack towards the roof until either you can't fit even your fingertips into it or you can reach some pockets on the face to climbers left. The 5.9 variation goes left onto the face to shallow pockets. Get into these and move up to the roof until you have to step back down under the roof with your right leg (of course there are other options) so you can reach a widening crack and jug above the roof.

Unsaid

It helps to be tall on this route. The crux comes at this point in which you need to get up and over the roof into another thin crack. Climb this crack until you come to another right facing corner. You should see the anchor by this point. Climb left and grab a nice vertical crack in the right facing slab and pull onto the steep slab below the anchor.

Descend by lowering or rapping from the anchors.

Essential Gear

60m or longer rope if belaying from the ledge. Do NOT lower from the ground/trail with anything shorter than a 70m rope!

Thin rack, small nuts and small cams helpful.