Overview
Located on Eldorado Canyon State Park's West Ridge, this route is a great near vertical crack climb offering a stout lead for beginners and moderates alike. Harder than it appears from the ground, the crux comes at pulling a large down-opening flake 20' below the anchors.
Getting ThereSee the main page for Eldo in regards to getting into the park. Once inside, it is easiest to park near the large boulder and rock hop across the creek to the climbers trail and go up the ridge until you come to the climb you're interested in. Or, starting on the east side of the park, cross the foot bridge and then head west on the climbers trail (obvious) until you come to the west ridge and head up. All routes will be on your right as you ascend the hill/ridge.
Route Description1 Pitch, 80 feet, 5.7 YDS
This thought provoking route starts out easy for the first 10 feet whereupon you have to climb up onto a big ledge. The line from here goes straight up on hands near the bottom, to tight fingers and nice, but spaced, finger locks with delicate feet. The climbing is definitley stout for the grade and is very steep and exposed. Climb past a piton (solid when I climbed it; 2008) and continue up the thin crack on balancy moves, footwork key here, towards the flake/roof.
The crux is a big flake at 70 feet that must be turned (small roof) and above this flake the climb is really thin up to the anchors (the topo says 5.8 for this but it's not too hard). My partner and I protected the flake/crux move with two cams (#2 & #3 C4's) before pulling over it since protection is scant above it.
The route in general provides good protection with stoppers and small-medium cams. The anchor/belay is either a big tree or two bolts with large rap rings 80 feet up. There is a big horizontal ledge just below the anchors affording an easy spot for belaying a second from atop.
Descend by lowering or rapping from the anchors.
Essential Gear60m rope
Standard trad rack, small to medium stopper, small to medium cams and C4's up to #3 to protect the crux/flake Images
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West Ridge
