OverviewLocated on Eldorado Canyon State Park's West Ridge, this route is a very short, but steep climb allowing the beginning trad leader to sew up a nice crack. Unfortuanately, the climb is only 25' long. Be mindful of peeling off near the top as a pine tree sits only feet from this climb.
Getting ThereSee the main page for Eldo in regards to getting into the park. Once inside, it is easiest to park near the large boulder and rock hop across the creek to the climbers trail and go up the ridge until you come to the climb you're interested in. Or, starting on the east side of the park, cross the foot bridge and then head west on the climbers trail (obvious) until you come to the west ridge and head up. All routes will be on your right as you ascend the hill/ridge.Route Description1 Pitch, 25 feet, 5.7 YDS
This is a very short, but fun route. Begin close to a tree on a small wall containing several short and steep vertical cracks. DMS is the left most route. Climb the steep crack and use the good face holds and small ledges for feet, or stuff your feet into the crack itself.
Harder than it looks (as are most Eldo routes) this crack gobbles up gear, small nuts and small cams. The climbing is interesting and sustained all the way to the top. Move right near the apex of the climb towards a tree (anchor), or continue up over the top buldge of the route if leading to get your money's worth out of it.
You can descend by walking off the back towards climbers left along 4th class ledges.
Essential Gear50m rope more than enough
Standard trad rack, small to medium stoppers, small cams Images
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