One Arm Bandit is an infrequently climbed route in the valley. Only two reasons for its neglect come to mind. First, the pitches are close together and relatively short. Second, it has the reputation for a hellish approach. Both of these judgements are unfair. The approach is not as bad as that of, for example, Miami Ice, and the climbing is more interesting.

Getting There

Drive down the South Fork Road past the Deer Creek campground. Just before the ridge on your right ends in the broad valley formed by Cabin Creek you will see a gully marked by a vertical stripe of gray rock beside a column of ice. This is the aptly named climb Main Vein. The next gully down the road (West) contains One Arm Bandit. Park just to the East of the braided stream bed and start walking uphill. try to stay to the right of the gully as long as snow and scree allow. It's a solid hour, but it isn't scary or a stumble-fest. Ski poles are very helpful.

Route Description

The route lies in a narrow gap in the left wall of the main gully.

Climb up a stepped pitch of WI3 for 55m to a ledge and belay from ice screws.

The next section begins with a narrow column of ice to a chockstone. A few awkward ice moves, if there is ice, or a couple of steep drytool moves, if there is no ice, get you past this obstacle to a few more feet of steep ice and then lower angle ground below the third pitch. Again, belay from ice screws.

The third pitch is the crux. Make your way through weird features and overhanging ice to a pair of bolts at the top on your left.

Pitch 4 takes you up rolling WI3 for 60m to a tree belay.

Now you have the choice of a short, steep flow just to you right (coward), a long slog for a bit of WI3/4 much farther up the drainage (fool), or, if it is in, the pillar directly above (lucky dog). You can see this pitch from the road. If it looks like it is touching, quit your job, sell your plane ticket and get up there. Rap the route. Going straight down the rock face from the third pitch anchors will just get you to the base of pitch #2 with a pair of 60m ropes.

Essential Gear

Ice screws and draws with enough for belays. 60m ropes. Cordage or webbing for Abalakovs. The chockstone on pitch #2 can be protected with red-blue tricams or small/medium cams if it is dry.

External Links

Coldfear.com, Core Mtn. Sports, Winter Dance by Joe Josephson.