The Route  three varied and protectable pitches found amoungst some runout classics
FA: Rick Reese, Jim Gaddis, Will Brushke, 1962
Located on one of Little Cottonwood's lowest prominent granite buttresses (the Crescent Crack Buttress), this climb is hot in the summer, and can be climbed comfortably in winter sometimes. It is located near other classics like Mexican Crack (10a), Crack in the Woods (9), Hand Jive (8), The Great Chockstone (7), and links up well with Coffin Crack (9+), or its traditionally bolted extention, Final Link (9).
Intermediate leaders will find this classic Wasatch outing to be the perfect remedy for the LCC Run-out Blues. The climbing is varied, with perfect cracks, jams, chimneying, and friction in the mix.
This climb is usually done as 2 pitches, though some teams do it in 3.
3 Pitch description (2 pitch Alternative):
P1: (5.6) Climb the dual crack up left into the chimney (45'). Head up the chimney, climbing various pure crack, stemming, and liebacking moves. Reaching an open treed area, belay at the bolts out left, or build an anchor. (top-ropes can be done out left, 10d, 8, ...)
Alternatively continue to climb through some funky bulges to a 2 bolt anchor below the .7 OW/chimney. Which makes this a 2 pitch climb.
P2: (5.7) After reaching the two bolt anchor, head up left into the chimney, not forgeting to feel around for the solid rail up left of the chimney. Continue up onto the upper crack, with friction and crack moves. Find a nice flat belay stance midway across the upper face at a pin and 1/2" crack. 5.7.
Alternatively: If you belayed at the anchor below the Squeeze you should be able to complete the climb across the final friction ramp.
P3: (5.6) Continue up the crack for more fun moves. Clip the fixed pin, and traverse down right across the friction ramp to the huge ledgey belay.
(P4: Exit either a chimney above 3rd belay (5th class) or via ledges and blocks up and right (4th class) up to the Coffin gully walk-off.)
Getting There  5.6 start of Crecent Crack
Park 1/4 mile up from the LCC 'sign' and find the trail that starts on the north side of the road at a powerbox. head up this trail until it forks near the foot of the buttress. Take the left (west) fork. The right (east)fork is the descent from Coffin Gully.
DESCENT: via the Coffin gully by climbing up and right to the base of the Coffin. Alternatively, climbers can rappel only from the top of the 1st pitch (single 60m)TOPO of Crescent Crack
TOPO |
Essential GearSingle rope (you can't rap easily off the top of the second pitch even with 2)
Rack:
A normal alpine rack should suffice, a 3.5 for the 'squeeze' can tame it a bit.
South-facing: don't climb here mid-day in summer unless you like sweat and cottonmouth.External LinksMountain Project Page
The Wasatch Guide Book. Images
|
Wasatch Range (Central)
