Yosemite Crack (5.9)

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Geography

Routes in Colorado

Parents

Lumpy Ridge/The Needles

Routes

The Pear - Magical Chrome-Plated Semi-Automatic Enima Syringe (5.7)

Yosemite Crack (5.9)

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

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Page By: Dan Dalton

Created/Edited: Jun 17, 2008 / Jun 17, 2008

Object ID: 413090

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Page Score: 87.35% - 4 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Digging in deep where it gets wide.

An amazingly fun crack perfect for introduction into the hands and fist sized crack. Short and sweet, this climb can be top roped easily if you feel insecure leading. A perfect way to spend some time to get to know Lumpy Ridge, or a great cool down crack at the end of the day.
[img::aligncenter:medium:Near the top of the short but sweet 'Yosemite Crack']

Getting There

Since last year, there is now a new parking lot to access Lumpy Ridge. Park here and take the Black Canyon Trail. When the trail branches, stay left the after about 1/4 mile up the trail. Follow higher until you see a climbers access trail and clean sign to Twin Owls. Go to the base of Hen and Chicken Rock, and scramble a short ways west to the base of the crack.

Route Description

An amazing and beautiful splitter hand-jam and offwidth crack on the formation approximately 90 feet left of the main Hen and Chickens formation, (where the trail ends at the base of Twin Owls).

Drew near the top of the climb.

Crack climb and awkwardly jam up the progressively widdening crack to the top. Depending on your size, this top can even throw a little off-width crack actions. Try to avoid laying back and use good crack technique to ascend the line. Set a belay in the cracks above since there are no bolts. To retrieve anchors gear, simply scramble off left or right. This route is approximately 50 feet.

Essential Gear

A helmet, of course, and the following:

one #2 camalot (yellow)
two-three #3 camalot (blue)
one #3.5 camalot (if you can get your hands on one!)
one #4 camalot (to protect the top moves)
one #.75 camalot and a set of nuts (to set up a belay in the upper cracks)

All racked up and starting the climb.

External Links

Mountain Project Page