| Magical Kimchi 395M 5.6 Route |
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| Magical Kimchi 395M 5.6   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: California, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 34.24416°N / 117.61753°W Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS) Grade: II
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| Page By: TacoDelRio Created/Edited: Jun 22, 2008 / Jul 26, 2009 Object ID: 414534 Hits: 795 Loading... Page Score: 87.46% - 6 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewThis route was named in honor of the large amount of Korean hikers that frequent the area (and the fact that the author grew up with Koreans). Credit for the name goes to my good buddy, James Pahng, US Army/USMA.
Route starts in Icehouse Canyon around 5,700ft, and ends around 7,000ft opposite the impressive Sheep Canyon Headwall and Sheep Flat. From 7k to the summit is all class 1-2 walking, if you choose to visit it. Simply follow the series of ridges before you to the summit, staying on their crest, as braving the Manzanita is really not worth it, as you'll lose time and energy.
If one does the route to the summit of Ontario, to obviously include the relatively-uninteresting class one hike from topout to summit, the entire vertical gain is 913M/2,993ft.
One can probably manage just fine scrambling the ridge, avoiding 5th class sections (or 4th-classing them), but options get thinner the further up you get, with steeper dropoffs and fewer downclimbing bailout points. This route is ont suggested if you are not comfortable with exposed movement on 4th class terrain.
There are plenty of options for harder or easier climbing all along the ridge, which keeps things interesting and very fun. The rock here is unlike the vast majority of San Gabriel rock, being excellent quality granite instead of really big kitty litter.Getting TherePark in the Icehouse Canyon parking lot, and follow Icehouse Canyon Trail to the Chapman Trail junction, nearly a mile in. In about 1/4-1/2 mile, you will be able to see part of Sheep Canyon on the right through all the trees. Once you're situated in front of the canyon, cross the stream, and head into the canyon. The butress on the right side of the canyon is where the route is. Simply gain the good rock heading up, and stick close to the ridgecrest.
Google Earth for the win. Route in yellow, top is green dot |
Upon topout, one can either rappel back down the route, rappel down the 260ft Sheep Canyon Headwall, or hike out either Fir Draw, Falling Rock Canyon, or head up to Ontario and take the trail back to Icehouse Saddle.Route DescriptionThe route begins inside the canyon. Gain the ridge on the right/west side of the canyon, and stick as close to the ridgecrest as possible. The ridge has several spots for emergency bivy that are big enough for a few folks, yet are shielded from most rockfall.
The ridge is fairly straightforward, and the technical portion terminates rather abruptly opposite of Sheep Flat, where it turns to very easy terrain.Essential Gear-Helmet
-Rock shoes (well worth it)
-Plenty of water
-Typical rock rack
-A dozen or so runners or equivelant webbing for natural anchors
-50-60m rope
One can choose to scramble most of the ridge, avoiding 5th class sections. In this case, a helmet and rock shoes are the only suggested special equipment.
If you choose to rappel down the Sheep Canyon Headwall, be aware that this wall is 260ft high, and bring equipment to accomodate.
Looking down on Icehouse Canyon |
External LinksChristopher E. Brennen's Sheep Canyon Canyoneering Page
Christopher E. Brennen's Canyoneering Pages Index Images
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Icehouse Canyon Rock Climbing
