| Buckingham (SE) Ridge Route |
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| Buckingham (SE) Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Wyoming, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 43.72789°N / 110.80956°W Route Type: Trad Climbing Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS) Difficulty: 45 degree snow Number of Pitches: 10 Grade: III
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| Page By: d_shorb Created/Edited: Jul 10, 2008 / Jun 16, 2009 Object ID: 420027 Hits: 2152 Loading... Page Score: 88.35% - 12 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview  The route behind Josh Chrisman
 Buckingham ridge is Route B on the central feature in this photo
FA: William Buckingham, Vigil Day, August 15, 1954
This classic route climbs the major ridge on the Middle Teton's south side. It resides between the Ellingwood Couloir on the east, and the South Couloir on the west. It is the Middle's Southeast Ridge, and is found in A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range as the Southeast Ridge. It has now taken the name of one of its first ascensionists, William Buckingham, who should be well known for his many first ascents throughout the west and Alaska.
Excellent rock, lack of crowds, and the equivalent of more than 10 pitches of climbing make the Buckingham route one of the sweetest climbs in the Garnet Canyon area. This route combines the classic alpine issues of mixed terrain, route-finding, and speed with its gorgeous setting and positioning to surround the climber with a superb Teton experience. Folks considering the Exum or Petzoldt Ridge may want to also put this one into the mix.
The central face of the route provides four pitches of sustained rock climbing that spice up its otherwise low-5th class 'feel.' Climbers can create harder variations further left on the face, and throughout is many mid-5th class pitches.
Views of the southern Garnet Canyon peaks prevail, although the upper route shares the glorious views of the Grand, Disappointment, and Teewinot, with the neighboring Ellingwood Coulior and the Glacier Route.
Another great resource is the MOUNTAIN PROJECT PAGE
Please see this route's parent pages for better information on the Park, permits, the Middle, and resources for Jackson tourism.Getting ThereApproach the south side of the Middle Teton via the Lupine Meadows (Garnet Canyon) Trial. Take a lefthand (southern) turn up into the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. This takes climbers up around the eastern (Dike) toe of the mountain. Head up the large canyon, looking right for the huge Ellingwood Couloir just west of the Dike Pinnacle. This is about half way up the canyon's north side.
Begin the climb by ascending the initial cone of the Ellingwood Couloir, and heading left onto the toe of the third to fifth class rock.
Route Description  The central buttress, with cracks to choose from on the righthand side.
 Climber heads up the chimney on the upper route.
WE FOUND THE TOPO PROVIDED IN THE BOOK (AND ON THIS PAGE) TO BE BASIC BUT VERY ACCURATE.
The route can be divided into four parts:
~The lower entrance of the Ellingwood Couloir and the 700 feet of 3rd to low 5th class simuclimbing on the lower buttress. (at right) There are many ways to go and the climbing is easy and fun. Generally, just head up the couloir, and ain the rock anywhere you see fit. The snow level in the couloir will determine where is best as well. There was a huge moat along the entire rock when we did it, so we started at the toe.
~The triangular central face has ~4 pitches of great 5.7- 5.9 climbing that leads to the first notch. (shown at left & right here). The central face has several ways to go, and parties can probably get through this section on 5.7 cracks. The classic line actually skirts the face to the climbers right, heading up its righthand (eastern) boundary.
~The three pitches of easy 5th class climbing leading to the upper snow field. These pitches above the face head up through notches and gullies, and are easy climbing that goes quickly for the most part. You can take whatever way you want, and if you follow the path of least resistance, you are on the right path.
~ The mid-5th class chimney and crack climbing leading to the south summit. After topping out onto a bench, the snowfield stands between you and your upper rock pitches. Head up and slightly right around a rock toe, and into a chimney/gulley (shown at right here). This gully ends at another step. Above this step is the final pitch, and you generally follow a crack and gulley system up and slighty right to the top of the south summit.
~ The rap from the south summit: Here, on the far righthand (NE) side of this (south) summit, there are belay bolts on a ledge, just up and over the top. They should be relatively easy to find, as long as you climb to the righthand side of the summit. This belay is logically placed, well bolted, and gives you a good rap down into the final notch that leads (with a short pitch) to the true, north summit.
Descend via the Southwest Couloir
Topo and Garnet View
 Dike Pinnacle from the upper route Essential GearAlpine rack, including nuts, cams, and runners. Nothing special because you'll find something in the size ranges you have.
Crampons, ice axe, mountain boots/shoes in the early season for both the initial snow couloir, and for the upper snow field.
We brought crampon compatible boots and rock shoes.
William Buckingham linksMt. Owen, Serendipity Arete, 5.7, C1
West Rib of Denali
Mt. Williamson in the Sierra
The Cirque of the Unclimbablesand in the AAJ
The Petit Grepon, RMNP
Caving Plummer's Pit Images
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Teton Range
