| The Young & the Rackless, 5.10a, 4 Pitches Route |
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| The Young & the Rackless, 5.10a, 4 Pitches   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 40.00464°N / 105.39283°W Route Type: Sport Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Time Required: Half a day Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS) Number of Pitches: 4 Grade: II
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| Page By: jfox Created/Edited: Aug 22, 2008 / Aug 22, 2008 Object ID: 434052 Hits: 277 Loading... Page Score: 87.54% - 5 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
Blob Rock of Boulder Canyon is a huge massif of solid granite located high above the roadway. It is situated directly across and above Cob Rock on the north side of CO-119. The massif is divided into three main formations: Blob Rock, East Blob and Bitty Buttress. The incredibly fun and solid route, The Young & the Rackless, is situated high on East Blob.
This is a great 4 pitch sport route, a rarity in Boulder Canyon, that shouldn't be missed by new leaders and even by crusty old vets. The rock is bomber, the bolts are many, the belay stations are large and well protected and the views are spectacular. There aren't many places in Boulder Canyon where you can top out this high and have 360 degree views of Denver as well as the Indian Peak 13ers off to the west.
This is a great way to spend the afternoon or after work on a fun and safe multi-pitch climb. The climbing is mostly 5.7+ with a few sections/moves of 5.9 & 5.10 here and there. Also, the route is heavily bolted.
Red TapeAll of Blob Rock and East Blob are closed each year from February 1st - July 31st for Raptor nesting!Getting ThereFrom Boulder: At the bridge (see main Boulder Canyon page), drive ~6 miles west to the Cob Rock parking area on your left (south). Walk across the hwy. and a bit west until there's another small pull off, the trail begins here. Make your way up the hill side following the faint trail, cairned, and then bear north east towards East Blob. Find the gulley on its east side and start the climb at a dead tree (standing).
Route Description4 Pitches, 300', 5.10a
P1: Climb steep left angling flared cracks for 40' until the angle eases off some. Follow the bolts to the belay anchors on easier ground. (5.9)
P2: Face climb up broken ledges to a buldge, crux, then reach high into a cleft. If you're tall, this pitch is 5.9 or so, if you're short, it'll feel like .10a/b as there's not much for your feet, and nothing for the hands if you can't reach the only hold that enables you to pull the buldge. Once past the crux, contiue following the bolts over more broken ledges and face climb to the anchor. (5.9)
P3: This is the hardest pitch on the climb. From the belay at the top of P2 you have two choices. You can go left or right. The right hand variation is the hardest and is .10a/b or so. That is the only variation we did, so I cannot comment on the left side. Anyway, follow either the left of right bolted crack (yeah, I know) from the belay. The right side begins easy but gets hard quick. The line follows a large flared hand crack on the right of an arete. I couldn't get good hands in it, so I liebacked it. Once past this, climb right to a V with a large buldge on the right. You're just below the anchor now, but the move here is tricky and off balance. Finding feet is the hardest. Pull the buldge however you can and climb the last few feet to the anchor. (5.10a)
P4: From under a huge roof, climb out right on steep slab. Look for tiny ledges for feet and fingers and contiue up past the giant raptor nest. This is steep slab climbing, but there are so many bolts its very safe climbing. The slab begins to break into ledges, pass an old Layton Kor pin and start climbing more vertically instead of right to the anchor. (5.8+)
DescentWith a 60m rope you can get down in 2 raps, but not along the route you climbed. Drop your ropes straight down and you'll end up at the belay for another climb furthur up the gulley. A 70m rope will get you to the bottom up the gulley.
Also, you can walk off. From the last anchor, head up and left for a bit, then right to the summit of East Blob. Walk off to the east then south down the gulley.Essential Gear60m rope, many quickdraws (15 or so). You can skip clips if you wish.
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