| East Ridge Disappointment Peak Route |
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| East Ridge Disappointment Peak   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Wyoming, United States, North America Route Type: Mountaineering Season: Summer Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS) Grade: II
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| Page By: lloyd Created/Edited: Aug 29, 2008 / Aug 29, 2008 Object ID: 436814 Hits: 932 Loading... Page Score: 86.89% - 4 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview The East Ridge of Disappointment Peak is one of the best routes in the Tetons. It can be accomplished in a single day (about 12 hours) or, you can enjoy a night of camping at Surprise Lake (great camp site) and complete the climb on day two. The route involves five or six pitches of 5.4-5.6 climbing and a short scramble to the top. The views of the Tetons from the top of Disappointment Peak can not be beat! Getting ThereTake the trail from the Lupine Meadows trail head to Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes (signs mark the way). From Amphitheater Lake, the East Ridge can clearly be seen on the north side of the lake. Continue hiking on the trail to the notch on the East Ridge of Disappointment Peak. Leave the trail and hike west (left) up the ridge through trees for several hundred feed to where the ridge becomes near vertical. This is the first pitch.Route Description Pitch 1: Climb the ridge it self or move to the left around the corner for slightly easier climbing. If you climb the ridge it self, one rope length should bring you to the horizontal section between pitches one and two. You may run out of rope slightly before reaching the horizontal section if you choose to climb to the left of the ridge.
Pitch 2 & 3: Face climb two pitches (5.6)
Pitch 4: Climb a gully with a tree.
Pitch 5: Hardest Pitch (5.6/5/7?) Climb a vertical face past fixed pitons to the summit plateau. This pitch is easy to protect, the rock is solid, and there is good exposure.
At the top of pitch 5 (possibly six depending on the lenght of your pitches) scramble for approximately 45 minutes to the summit and enjoy the views.Essential GearStandard alpine rack to 3"
Ice axe in early season for the descent
DecentFollow the Lake Ledges or Southeast Ridge down. The Lake Ledges Route seems the most straightforward. I was forced to complete a short rappel on this decent, however, it would be possible to find a way to down climb the entire route. The Southeast Ridge was more difficult to find. On my first attempt to down climb this route, I went too far to the south and missed the gully. This descent required some route finding, but it was possible to downclimb the entire way back to Amphitheater Lake. Red TapeA backcountry camping permit, free of charge, from the Jenny Lake Rangers is required if camping at Suprise Lake. Most of the climbing rangers are extremely knowledgeable and will be very helpful with any questions you might have. Additional infoFurther information and a good route description can be found in A CLIMBERS GUIDE TO THE TETON RANGE Images
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