Shirtsleeve Rock - Main Crack 5.7

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Shirtsleeve Rock - Main Crack 5.7

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.20483°N / 117.05148°W

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

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- 1 Votes

Page By: TacoDelRio

Created/Edited: Oct 24, 2008 / Oct 24, 2008

Object ID: 456343

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Page Score: 87.04% - 4 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Main Crack

I do not know the actual name of the route/feature, so the name "Main Crack" is being used. My buddy and I call it "Booze Crooze". This is a halfway-fun, short trad climb near Hungover Wall on Keller Peak. There are several other routes on this formation, one 5.8 and two 5.10's, all sport, though I only saw bolts for the 5.8 on the south "arete".

Getting There

From Hungover Wall, head north up the base of the wall uphill, going west around the end of the wall. Shirtsleeve Rock is to the right-front. This route is the most obvious crack in the formation.

Route Description

Route starts up an easy step to a split step. Crack begins with crux being the start of the climbing. Short route with softball-sized chockstone below "summit" in route crack, as most feasible rapp anchor.

Anchors aweigh

Essential Gear

-50m rope
-Full set of nuts
-Gear to 3" or so
-Several slings to 36"
-Beer

The author protected the route with a #8 and a #6 nut, and a sling up top around the chockstone, which had to be "persuaded" into place.