The Face of the Giant Maid

Route

Images (9)

Climber's Log (1)

Comments (2)

Additions & Corrections (1)

Contribute

Geography

Parents

Routes

The Face of the Giant Maid

Hanzova pot (Hanza Route)

Through the Front (West) Window

Over the south slopes

W ridge

The Face of the Giant Maid

Page Type: Route

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: UIAA: V+ A3e/ V, IV, 150m

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: III

Loading...
Route Quality:
1
2
3
4
5
- 1 Votes

Page By: zvonkop

Created/Edited: Oct 26, 2008 / Apr 14, 2009

Object ID: 457374

Hits: 673

Page Score: 88.03% - 9 Votes

Vote: Log in to vote

Overview

What clearly appears as a human face in the lower W part of the Prisank (Prisojnik) NW face
is of course wrapped in fairy tales and legends.
The first ascent of the beauty on Aug 12. 1984 was no less legendary.
The Face of the Giant Maid (Obraz Ajdovske deklice) is an Aid Climbing classic.
Janez Jeglic (1961-1997), Silvo Karo and Franc Knez opened the route (quote) in 9 hours;
the grade is V+ A3e/V, IV, 150m.

Getting There

The approach starts at the Erjavceva koca(hut)
For overnight accomodations, reserve by tel.: (00386)(0)51 399226
Offering a good view of the route, the Erjavceva koca (hut) is at the altitude of 1500m, to the N of the Vrsic pass, along the Bovec to Kranjska Gora road (parking lot, bus in the summer).

The approach along the Jeseniska (Kopiscarjeva) pot (path) is short (ca.30min).

Route Description

Start below the Face and go to the ledge, left (II).
We may choose our own belay strategy, following the evident cracks and the original set of expansion bolts.
Follow the crack to the right up to the 1st roof (V, A3);
then follow the crack to the 2nd roof (the chin): V+, A3.
We then avoid the next roof (the eye) on its left (slab): A1,
traverse right, avoiding the last overhang (the forehead) from the right.
We now take advantage of the large slab which leads to a short chimney (V-), after which it is still a scramble before reaching the path.

Please enlarge the primary image and discover the grades added along the line.

Essential Gear

Double 60m
More slings than usually (or ladders)
3 cams (medium to small)
4 ordinary pitons (f.i.: jesenicani)
2 profile (V or U) pitons

Sources

Vrsic climbing guide (Ljubljana,1997)

Images